A tapered shaft is just as strong as a non-tapered (or standard hosel) shaft as long as you are using the flex rating, blade pattern, and lie of the blade that are correct for you and your style of play. If any one or more of those specs are wrong, you will be far more prone to breaking sticks and/or blades since your shot mechanics will be seriously altered by the improperly chosen equipment.
As with any mass produced product, you could always end up with the occasional defective shaft that breaks within the first couple of uses. Don't let that deter you or sour you to that particular shaft. Most manufacturers offer a 30 warranty on their shafts and sticks to cover these types on problems.
The only real difference between a tapered and non-tapered shaft (other than a few grams of weight) lie in where it is designed to bend when taking a shot (called the kick-point). Most non-tapered shafts are designed to bend around the middle of the shaft (mid flex) while tapered shafts are designed to bend much lower or as close to the bottom end of the shaft as possible. The thinking behind tapered shafts is that a lower kick-point means a harder more accurate shot with a quicker release than standard hosel shafts. Therefore, due to the increased performance, the more a shaft or stick costs, the lower the kick-point.
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