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If you are right handed, this is the most difficult single pin to knock down. In you practic you should develop a "cross-lane" technique line up on the 7 pin side. Also, try to develop a "straight ball" for the ten pin and cut down on any hook you may have. Note the lane condition since oily or dry conditions come in to play because Bowling establishments like to oil the middle only. Lastly, practice, practice, practice.

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14y ago
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13y ago

We are assuming that you're talking about a right-handed bowler, who throws the usual right-to-left hook (a hook from left to right for a righthander is called a backup ball). In addition, this question deals with picking up the 10-pin when it stands alone, not in combination with other pins.

For some bowlers, especially those whose style would be described as a power game (lots of hook and revolutions, either with lots of speed or just average speed), even those at a fairly advanced level, picking up a lone 10-pin is a mighty challenge because some adjustments must be made to their basic game in order to have any kind of success converting this pin.

The right-to-left hook (as you would see virtually every right-handed professional bowler on TV throw) makes picking up the 10-pin, the pin next to the right gutter (or channel, in politically correct/21st century parlance) the most difficult single pin to convert for a spare, since the ball wants to hook away from the pin just as it's reaching the pin deck (where the pins are located).

For a lefty, with a left-to-right hook, everything in this question AND answer is virtually a mirror image and applies to the 7-pin, the pin next to the left gutter (or, again, channel).

The single best strategy to take when shooting a 10-pin is straightening the path your ball takes, whether that means a perfectly straight ball or just straight than what you're used to.

Some would argue that shooting the 10-pin "cross lane" (releasing the ball from near the left gutter and going across the lane to near the right gutter where the 10-pin is) is more important. That was probably true in the days of black rubber balls, none of which hooked more than a few inches in total.

But in today's world of balls made of reactive resin urethane (and the related types of covers on balls with a lot of fancy names), means even some fairly mediocre bowlers can throw a tremendous hook that is best measured in feet, not inches. A ball that hooks that much is pretty much useless for shooting a 10-pin.

So killing the hook is essential. It can be done by killing the revolutions (breaking the wrist back, not cupping it), or by keeping your hand behind the ball and not letting the wrist turn around the ball with a side spin. It can also be accomplished by going to a less high-performance ball, one today commonly made of a plastic or polyester material. This kind of ball doesn't hook a whole lot even if a fair amount of spin is imparted on it.

The pros often change balls for spares, particularly 10-pins. They'll go from throwing a "cool" looking ball for strikes (a solid color or interesting swirling-color pattern) to a gaudy, even loud and obnoxious design on the cover for their spares. You'll see bright canary yellow balls, black-and-white yin-and-yang designs, ones that look like basketballs or oversized Golf balls, and even ones that are clear with some weird sausage shape stuck in the middle like a paperweight. These are basically "dud" balls that they wouldn't be caught dead throwing for strikes, cause they won't hook and have no power -- perfect for shooting 10-pins!

The cross-lane method is also recommended even for the straightest of 10-pin shooters, and it can only help to throw as hard as can be done without losing your accuracy.

For most spares, and for virtually every spare that doesn't have a "sleeper" involved (a pin tucked in directly behind another -- the 5-pin behind the head pin, 8-pin behind the 2-pin, and the 9-pin behind the 3-pin), accuracy is EVERYTHING, power is NOTHING. Speed can help bounce pins around and add some luck to the mix, but on these non-sleeper spares, any revolutions on the ball will only make the ball path more erratic.

If you're advanced, and in my leagues I know an 88-year-old man that does this with no problem, you can employ a backup ball at a 10-pin, the opposite of normal left-to-right hook that looks like a lefthander just threw your ball. It in effect makes shooting a 10-pin as simple as shooting a 7-pin for the normal rightie.

However, I won't get into the problems associated with throwing a hook at a 7-pin -- suffice it to say, on a normal league pattern with a lot of extra oil built up in the center part of the lane, a hook can do some strange things when you decide to hook it all the way from the right gutter over to the left gutter. Some bowlers abandon the cross lane method for 7's, others like myself try to throw nearly as straight at a 7-pin as they do at a 10-pin.

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11y ago

Individual and/or team points are earned usually by beating the opposing player and/or team. After a designated number of weeks, the team with the highest number of points is normally in first place and wins.

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Q: How to knock down 10 pin on bowling?
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