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you will need a tapered blade preferably a Dolomite blade
A replacement blade can be put into a tapered shaft as long as the blade has a tapered hosel. A standard hosel blade will not fit into a tapered shaft. The tapered shaft must also actually be a shaft and not a recently broken one-piece stick. Some players try to cut broken blades off of one-piece sticks and then think they can replace the blade in the remaining shaft. This can work in principle but only at the expense of the natural performance of the stick. It is generally not recommended.
No. The one55 blade is a .620" taper, and the (broken) one70 stick has a .520" taper. A Warrior Dolomite or other tapered blade will fit.
Sure it'll fit, but it will also come flying out after the first shot you take. Either that or destroy your stick because the tapered blade didn't fit so snugly into your non-tapered shaft.
A tapered shaft is just as strong as a non-tapered (or standard hosel) shaft as long as you are using the flex rating, blade pattern, and lie of the blade that are correct for you and your style of play. If any one or more of those specs are wrong, you will be far more prone to breaking sticks and/or blades since your shot mechanics will be seriously altered by the improperly chosen equipment. As with any mass produced product, you could always end up with the occasional defective shaft that breaks within the first couple of uses. Don't let that deter you or sour you to that particular shaft. Most manufacturers offer a 30 warranty on their shafts and sticks to cover these types on problems. The only real difference between a tapered and non-tapered shaft (other than a few grams of weight) lie in where it is designed to bend when taking a shot (called the kick-point). Most non-tapered shafts are designed to bend around the middle of the shaft (mid flex) while tapered shafts are designed to bend much lower or as close to the bottom end of the shaft as possible. The thinking behind tapered shafts is that a lower kick-point means a harder more accurate shot with a quicker release than standard hosel shafts. Therefore, due to the increased performance, the more a shaft or stick costs, the lower the kick-point.
tapper angle formula of shaft
Reset the wiper arm. At the bulkhead end of the arm is a big nut on a tapered shaft. (might be under a cover). Slacken the nut and loosen the arm from the tapered shaft. Move the wiper to a different position on the windshield and tighten the nut. Test wiper to see that blade returns to the new position.
Try heating it with a heat gun. You might try a blow dryer, but I do not think it will get hot enough. Make sure you do not overheat and crack the shaft.
He uses his own prototype AK27 Warrior Stick. Earlier models of the AK27 are available in stores now, but not the exact model that he uses. He uses a two-piece stick, the shaft is available, and so is the Kovalev Warrior blade. http://www.hockeymonkey.com/warrior-hockey-shaft-ak27-sr-clear-2009.html?productid=warrior-hockey-shaft-ak27-sr-clear-2009&channelid=FROOG http://www.inlinewarehouse.com/Warrior_AK27_HD_Hockey_Blade_09_Sr/descpage-WABS.html
On the hockey stick, you have the shaft (the part you hold), and the blade (the part that touches the ice). In the blade, you have the Heel, which is the part connected to the shaft. Then you have the toe, which is the tip of the blade, or the end which does not connect to the shaft.