Bones Swiss creamics
If you hear a noise you suspect is a bad wheel bearing try this. While driving slowly turn the wheel sharply to the left. If the noise goes away your left front wheel bearing is bad. Now, turn sharply to the right. If the noise goes away you right front wheel bearing is bad. The only 100% sure fire way to know for sure is to remove the wheel bearing and inspect it.
either take it to a mechanic who knows what the hell they are doing, or drive your truck into a lake
The perfect wheel has zero offset. That is, the surface of the wheel bolted to the hub is equidistant from both the interior and exterior edges of the wheel. The greater the offset from " zero", the less "linear the load is on the wheel bearing. Instead of pressing down at 90 degrees to the bearing, the weight is now preloaded to the side of the bearing center line. This causes un-natural wear on the bearing, which can cut down the bearing life by a significant amount. Big Torquer
urethane back in the day, most likely now the same urethane ***yes, it is still urethane
First apply brakes. Next remove real wheel and wheel bearing cap. Now remove hub, turn center nut clockwise. Bearings should pull with ease.
Sort of like a rub or grind coming from wheel. If you suspect a bad bearing you should have it checked like NOW!!! If it fails your wheel is gonna come off.
First, the car will need to be raised. Then the rear wheel should be removed. Now the existing bearing and seal can be removed and the new ones fitted.
First, the car will need to be raised. Then the rear wheel should be removed. Now the existing bearing and seal can be removed and the new ones fitted.
Well Justin Bieber was in a wheel chair when he broke his leg while skateboarding. But now Justin is fine and dandy!
Torgue the bearing to 30-40 ft lbs,to seat the bearing, then back it out. Now tighten it by hand just enough to hold the bearing in place. Spin the wheel by hand as you snug it back up. You don't want to over-tighten it, this would cause friction, making it harder for the wheel to spin. Not too loose either though. Just enough so there's no "play" when you try to wiggle the wheel. Now you're ready to put the cotter pin back. Somebody had posted an answer with an extremely high torgue spec. If you already took that advice, you probably ruined you're bearing by now.
Rotor not usually necessary, but new hub is generally part of bearing now.
right now