Have you tryed to put a screwdriver in the "hole" where the door striker would go and as you pull the handle up push the screwdriver out. As if you were going throught the motions of the door opening but the screwdriver acts as the striker.
grease
The door striker on a 95 F150 is also a bolt, easily adjusted with a socket wrench using a Torx T-45 bit, available at Sears, home improvement stores, hardware stores, auto parts stores and many other places. The bit fits right in the end of the striker, and you loosen it by turning counter-clockwise as you would with any other bolt. Loosen the striker just enough to shift it and the guide around, but don't take it completely off. I suggest moving it in small increments and trying the fit repeatedly because a small shift makes a big difference. Before you start, you might want to wipe off the area around the striker and trace its position with a felt tip pen so you can at least get it back where you started in case your adjustments don't correct the problem you're trying to solve. The striker and guide affect many aspects of the door fitment. You are adjusting the height of the door inside the door frame, as well as how deeply it will close in the frame and whether the upper or lower portion of the door is canted in, out or flush. Remember if you move the striker very far up or down, you may put stress on the hinge components. If the door has had a lot of use, you may only need to replace the latch mechanism in the door or some of the hinge components rather than moving the striker. Be patient. This is a seemingly small adjustment that can be frustrating before you get it where you want it.
The striker adjustment is very sensitive. The door ajar switch is in the latch mechanism on the door and if the striker is not adjusted perfectly, the switch will not function. My 1997 has a double latch, yours probably does also. Try adjusting the striker closer to the pilar. That should tighten it up enough to make the door ajar switch function. If not, just keep adjusting it until you get the light to go out. It took us 3 tries to get it.
Nader pin is the pin in the door jam that the door latches on to, to close. It is also called a door striker pin.
Adjust the striker if door otherwise aligned ok.
How are the hinges? If the door drops down when opened, then the hinges are worn out. If the hinges are fine, then adjustment to the striker/bolt assembly is needed. This is very simple, and once you take a look at it, you'll see what to do.
Try picking up on the door when you pull. The doors are too long heavy for the car over time it sags down and the striker hits lower and lower until it jams. If your lock is broke on you can use a slim jim. You might have to fix the hinge or the striker.
Almost all modern commercially produced door handles can be installed on either hand. The internal mechanism, known as the striker, flips over and is identical top and bottom. Door handles have spindles that slip through a square slot in the striker mechanism so that when the knob is turned, or button pushed, the striker is withdrawn, allowing the door to open. Deadbolts are similarly constructed.
Loosen Nadar pin and move, BUT DO NOT REMOVE
Try loosing the bolts that hold the hinge to the body. Just enough to raise or lower the door. Then tighten and adjust accordingly. You can adjust the striker bolt to get a tighter closing door. You loosen it and push it further back for a tighter fit or pull it out some for a looser fit. Hope this helps.
A door.