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How does a breaker form?
A breaker forms when a large ocean wave encounters a shallow seabed or obstacles like rocks, causing the wave to become unstable and eventually topple over in a dramatic fashion. The sudden change in water depth accelerates the wave's crest, causing it to break and generate crashing white water.
What is a wave breaker?
A wave breaker, also known as a breakwater, is a structure built along the coast to protect a harbor, beach, or shoreline from the impact of waves. It is designed to dissipate the energy of incoming waves, reducing their height and intensity. Wave breakers can be made of concrete, rocks, or other materials to absorb and deflect the force of the waves.
The height of a wave above the median line?
The height of a wave above the median line is called the wave height. It is typically measured from the trough (lowest point) to the crest (highest point) of the wave. Wave height is an important parameter in assessing wave conditions for activities such as surfing, boating, and offshore operations.
What is a breaker as it relates to waves?
A breaker is a collapsing wave that occurs when the ocean floor rises abruptly, causing the wave to break and form white foam. Breakers are typically found in shallow water near the shore where the waves interact with the ocean floor. They are important for surfers as they provide good conditions for riding waves.
What causes a rogue wave and what is the damage and wavelength of a rogue wave?
Rogue waves are caused by the interference and combining of different wave systems, leading to a sudden and large wave. They can cause significant damage to ships and offshore structures due to their unexpected size and force. Rogue waves can have wavelengths of around 100-500 meters, making them much larger than surrounding waves.
