From the very first day you ride your Suzuki Raider R150, the "rpm" indicator, more properly called your TACHOMETER, is a very important tool. Knowing how to use it is the key to getting the most out of your machine.
Breaking in your R150 is easier if you keep the tach at 3,500 to 6,000 RPM (engine REVOLUTIONS PER MINUTE) and keep riding at this level until your digital trip meter, or ODOMETER, reads 800.00 km. (The odometer is the small digital number strip on top of the BIGGER speedometer digits- which read "0" when the motorbike is not in motion and increases as the motorbike picks up speed. It doesn't really matter how fast or how slow your R150 is going- JUST KEEP THE RPM LEVEL at 3,500 to 6,000 to BREAK IN the motorbike's engine- that is, getting it CONDITIONED for riding.
Once you have hit 800 kilometers of ride on the "ODO", you can now ride with the engine a bit ANGRIER, at 6,000 to 8,000 RPM. Ride the bike with the TACH at this level until the odometer reads 1,600 KM. After 1,600 KM. at this very strict practice of TACH-CONTROL, you may now ride the R150 at full throttle. The next use of your tachometer will be for full control of the bike while shifting gears and riding comfortably...OR blisteringly fast.
Changing gears on a SOFT RIDE (which is the recommended daily routine for work-day driving and busy city travel) should be made at 5,500 to 6,500 RPM. This way the engine is in MEDIUM revolution and will not jerk forward or snap you backwards.
Now for the HARD RIDE (for weekend rides, open roads and the race track: for a stock R150 the best HIGH REV range for shifting gears is 9,000 to 10,000 RPM. You may experience a "coughing engine" if you remain at 10,000 RPM for a few seconds- that is because the stock R150 engine is LIMITED by its electrical circuits and CAPACITOR DISCHARGE IGNITION (CDI) from going beyond this level. It keeps the R150 safe and WITHIN GOVERNMENT-APPROVED SAFETY STANDARDS.
FOR THE RACE RIDE: Assuming you have purchased a RACING CDI, the R150 is now PARTIALLY SET-UP to race. There is a RED PORTION on the tachometer. It starts at 11,500 RPM. During a race, or a blisteringly fast ride, changing gears within the RED LINE portion of the tach brings out what the R150 engine was designed for: superior speed, power, and endurance.
But always remember: the people who live to tell the tale of how to use the R150 tachometer best, how fast a Suzuki Raider R150 can really go, and what it can do on the road ARE THE PEOPLE WHO RIDE WISELY, WITH SAFETY GEAR, A TOTAL KNOWLEDGE OF THE ROADS THEY TRAVEL, and GAIN EXPERIENCE BY DRIVING SLOWLY AND CAREFULLY and learn to keep traffic rules and regulations in their minds all the time.
You want to have all-out fun with a Suzuki Raider R150? Take it to a race-track and put on your safety gear and helmet. Drive with your eyes on the track. Ride safely.
raider 150 is the best because many of the drag biker use this and it is faster because its is 4 valve engine& 6speed
The best spark plug for racing in a Suzuki Raider 150 (FU-SC or FU-SCD 150) is the BOSCH Iridium spark plug. This plug does not miss a spark at low (3,000 RPM) or high (11,000 to 12,500 RPM) engine revolutions. It is best used at full throttle races. The BOSCH Iridium is best used in high-intensity drag races (quarter-mile or more), giving a consistent high power fuel-burning capacity that will not scar the Suzuki Raider 150's piston. Extreme modifications to the Raider 150 engine, coupled with high-intensity spark plugs, may scar or even tear holes onto the piston's top end. For Circuit Racing, where there is the tendency to use low gears on slowing down, as well as rapid up-shifting to gain speed, the best spark plug to use in the Suzuki Raider 150 or R150 is the NGK G-Power plug. It provides consistent fuel-burning spark on rapid slowdowns (using the engine as a brake, or engine-braking).
You probably mean how fast IS a Stock Suzuki Raider R150? Speed tests are a very dangerous thing to do on a Raider 150. I must stress that YOU DO NOT SPEED TEST A SUZUKI RAIDER 150 OR R150 on stock tires (IRC 70-90 and IRC 80-90), as they fail to stop safely at more than 100 KPH. Neither do you make a speed test if you are not AT LEAST 5 years experienced in driving beyond 120 KPH.For speed tests, wear high cut leather shoes (steel-toe preferably), elbow, arm, knee, and shin protectors, and full motorcycle body armor. Wear a closed-face helmet of good quality.That having been said : A whole lot depends on your body weight. I have a stock Raider R150 2008 and a modified Raider 150 2005 model. A lot also depends on what type of road you are riding, what tires you have on, and the engine's revolutions when you change gears.I tip the scales at 152 lbs. My stock Raider R150 has Dunlop 80-80 Low-Profile rear tires and Michelin Pilot Sporty 70-90 front. Changing gears at 10,000 RPM, my Raider started out peaking at 9,500 RPM on 6th gear at 135 KPH after break-in. This was on a 7 km. empty stretch of asphalt road, slightly angled down, 15 degrees. This increased to 140 kph after 3000 kms. If you find enough clear road to actually start changing gears only at 11,000 RPM, a stock raider can pull to 150 KPH if your weight is around 150 lbs. Again, the secret is to shift gears at 11,000 RPM and to find a clear, safe track to do this. Usually it's hard enough to find an empty, safe stretch of road to use the Suzuki Raider's 6th gear.A race-track is the best place to test your Suzuki Raider. Remember to always wear a helmet and safety gear when driving.
gamiti og mantika sa baboy
I have both the Suzuki Raider 150 (2005 Model) and the Suzuki Raider R150 (2007 Model). The two major differences are: 1. The R150 has an electric starter. On my R150, I have removed the kickstarter, because I never use it. 2. The R150 has a larger engine cowling. Older motorcyclists call them "air scoops", which direct more air into the cooling fins on the engine. Technically, then, the R150 is "cooler" than the older model. This becomes apparent on long drives. The longest I have ridden my older Suzuki is 4 hours straight, and on the R150, I have driven 7 hours with just one 15-minute stop for lunch after a five-hour run. The R150 has an electric starter and a more complete engine cowling system. The cowling or " air-scoops" direct more air into the engine's cooling fins, resulting in a cooler engine. The electric starter makes the R150 about 1.15 kilograms heavier than the older Raider 150. The rear brake pump on the R150 is located lower and at a shallower angle than the rear brake pump on the older Raider. This is an important fact to consider when buying third party REAR SETS (These are foot-peg, brake, and gear-shift lever assemblies that move the foot-peg position more than 4 inches towards the rear of the bike, resulting in a more crouched driving position for higher speeds). Usually, a new REAR SET made for a Raider 150 rather than a Raider R150 will be a problem to attach because the rear brake pump is in an awkward position and will not align with the bolt holes on the new REAR SET.
you can.
yes
I use LRP type gasoline to my '96 suzuki dr 200se
yes you can
You would use -I to leave the old kernel intact when you install a new kernel.
You would use a worm drive meshed with a gear that has 130 teeth.
The answer is it can be less. Most grinding discs show the maximum RPM allowed, it does not necessarily mean that you have to run at those RPM it means that in order to use the disc SAFELY you should not exceed that speed.