Freehub. When gearing inevitably wears out, with the freehub you only change out the gears (cogs or cogset). With the freewheel you replace the entire assembly, including the ratcheting mechanism and bearings. OTOH freewheel assemblies can be found rather cheap, so the economy of of it isn't that clear-cut. A more definite reason is that freewheels leave more of the axle unsupported, (the bearing is located closer to the centre of the hub) which makes freewheel wheels more prone to broken and bent axles if you want to run 7-8 speeds.
Depends on if it's a freewheel or a freehub design. For a freewheel you need the appropriate freewheel puller. For a freehub you need a splined lockring tool.
Sounds like your freewheel/freehub is broken/gummed up and needs servicing or replacement.
Bikes with external gears are available in two different rear wheel designs. One is called a freewheel, in which the sprocket cluster together with the one-way clutch that makes coasting possblke is treated as one unit. The other is the freehub design, where the one-way clutch and the sprocket cluster are treated as separate units. With a freewheel you replace the chutch bit too when the sprockets gets worn, with a freehub you only replace the sprockets. Freehubs also have the bearings further apart which makes them less prone to bending/breaking the axle.
Depends on what hub you have, and how you want to do the change. If your current hub has a multi-speed freewheel you will need a freewheel puller. If your current hub is a freehub you will need a chain whip and a lockring tool. If your current hub is an IGH, all you need to do is to unhook your shifter cable.
Either you've unknowingly bought a fixie, which is meant to work like that. Or your freewheel/freehub is broken/gummed up and needs servicing or replacement.
The only thing I can think of that would make a sound on a regular BMX would be the ticking from the pawls in the freewheel/freehub mechanism - the one way clutch that allows you to keep the pedals still while rolling forward.
Human-powered bicycles haven't got flywheels.You're probably thinking about a freewheel. Only rather cheap MTBs have freewheels, as they're prone to axle breakage. Better ones have freehubs.To remove a freewheel you need a special tool called a freewheel puller, and they're available in at least 4 different types.To remove a (shimano) freehub body you need a cone wrench, a lock ring tool, a chain whip and a large Allen key.
The quality may be OK, but the level of components is rather low. 2x7 drivetrain is pretty dated, and won't make any sense upgrading. It also has a freewheel, as opposed to the more modern freehub design. Not to be recommended for a heavier rider.
They're threaded in place. You need a special freewheel puller (park tool sells them, among others.) to remove one and it can be torqued beyond belief. They spin on by pedalling action, so no need to torque that one. There's a newer freewheel design that sort of mimics the design of MTBs, with a freehub body and a separate sprocket. they need an different approach.
Usually the sprocket is an inseparable part of the freewheel, and the size of the freewheel is determined by the hub.
Freewheel Burning was created in 1983-09.
If they're all inside the hub they're called internal gears, and consist of something mechanics refer to as "planetary" gears. If they are toothed discs that sit outside the hub they're called sprockets. The whole assembly is either a multi-speed freewheel. or a "cassette" for a freehub.