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The absolute best way to regrip a Golf club is to use an air gun. The type used has a narrow "nipple" it tapers to a small opening. You can buy a "special" golf club gripping tool online or you can just go to any hardware store that sells air tools and buy a simple air gun. Make sure you get on that doesn't have holes in side of nozzile and tapers to a small point. They are very common and cost about $5

See NOTES AT END OF ANSWER FOR TIPS.

1) All golf grips contain a small hole in the butt end of the grip. By pushing the end of the air gun into this hole and applying air pressure I have my regulator set to 80 lbs. it will cause the old grip to swell around the shaft and can be removed "IF" it is not too old. If it is stuck, you can use one of those plastic club guides that go into your bag to keep the old grip from blowing up like a balloon. That is IF it is not too old and you want to save it. If you don't care just cut it off with a razor knife.

2) Leave old tape on shaft, it will work again. I have left tape 30yrs old on the shaft and it will work fine. I suspect you don't even need the tape as the conventional way to put grip on is to use solvent. Solvent simply makes the glue on the tape slippery so the new grip could be slid on easy. With air you don't need to have it.

3) Put the end of the new grip onto the end of the shaft about 1/4 inch. Place the air gun into the small hole on butt of new grip. Put pressure on the end of the grip so when air is applied it will slide further onto the shaft. Once it starts sliding with air applied it will go on very easily and can be rotated to align the logo on the grip with the club head. NOTE: you dont' need the plastic tube mentioned above to put the new grip on. It will slide with very little pressure once air is applied and it will not swell up like an old one.

4) The new grip can be usually be removed easily without damage for a while so you can try different grips on a club to see which one you like.

NOTES:

*) Put club in vise to hold it during process. I made a rubber clamp from an old piece of automotive radiator hose to prevent the club shaft from being scarred. You could use a towel.

*) Once grip is on shaft I hold the grip nearest the club head, apply downward pressure and then apply more air to do the final seating. This helps to gently stretch the grip all the way onto the shaft and cover the mark left by the old grip. It will not damage the new grip to do this.

*) During the final seating I also make sure the logo is aligned with the club head so at address the grip logo is on top the club. This is aesthetic and I don't believe affects the performance of the club. But no reason not to align it.

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13y ago
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11y ago

How to regrip a golf club;

the basic way which can be done at home without any 'special' equipment;

you will need;

-White spirit/solvent

-Grip tape; ordinary double sided carpet tape will suffice

-a stanley knife

-a new grip

1) Take your club in one hand and press the butt of the shaft into a worktop/surface.

2) Use the stanley knife to cut a line from tip to butt in the grip right through to the shaft. If steel press as hard as you like with the knife, if it's graphite make sure you don't cut a groove into the back of the shaft!!!

3) Peel the grip back like a banana and it should just come off in your hand.

4) Remove the old tape (You can rub it off with a rag soaked in white spirit/solvent)

5) Apply fresh tape to the shaft a half inch shorter than the new grip in length, and leave an inch extra over the end of the end of the shaft which you scrunch up and push into the butt to stop dirt falling down the shaft causing those horrible rattles.

6) Prestretch the new grip so that it slides on nice and easy.

7) cover the grip tape in solvent, and plug the small hole in the butt of the grip with your finger and pour solvent into the grip until it is half full, shake it around lubricating the inside of the grip, then pour the contents of the grip back into the bottle and quickly slide the grip all the way down the shaft until the butt of the club hits the bottom of the shaft, otherwise you'll end up with a floppy end!

8) Align the grip square to the face of the club and your done.

To Reshaft a golf club;

You will need;

- A blow torch

- A vice with rubber shaft protector

- Epoxy Resin e.g. Araldite

- a new Shaft

- A Kettle

1) Fill the kettle and boil it, whilst the kettle boils hold the ferrule over the steam and when its hot enough with a towel over your hand slide the ferrule up the shaft away from the club head, this stops it from melting when you heat the hosel.

2) Put the club in a vice and heat the hosel *evenly* to avoid distorting the chrome finish, it should glow red hot, and you will know when you are hot enough because the glue holding the shaft in place will burn off releasing a puff of light grey smoke, then pull the head off immediately with a wet towel over your hands. You should also remove the ferrule and place it onto your new shaft at this point.

3) allow the clubhead to cool slowly, but not completely, you can apply the epoxy to your new shaft during this time(If you have a graphite shaft you can make small cut marks into the shaft with a stanley knife to help the epoxy stick), once the epoxy is applied push the end of the new shaft into the head and align the shaft and head immediately, allow the head to cool slowly and the epoxy to set over 24/48 hours.

4) clean any heat blueing off the chrome using white spirit/mineral spirits.

I work in a PGA pro Shop, this is the process we use in all of our regripping/reshaftings enjoy!

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17y ago

Reshafting requires removing the old one and installing a new one. Assuming it's intact, the old shaft can be removed by heating the hosel with a heat gun, or a propane torch if you're really careful. You need to heat the epoxy holding the old shaft to its failure temperature, which is typically somewhat above the boiling point of water. It works best if you can keep a constant force and/or torque on the shaft while heating, so the failure will be observed immediately. If the shaft is broken off, you might be able to grip it with locking pliers. If it's flush with the top of the hosel, something similar to a screw extractor can be used to get a grip on it. Once the old shaft is out, clean up the inside of the hosel. I use sandpaper rolled into a cylinder, and work until it's shiny. Installing the new shaft requires cutting it to length, roughening the tip with coarse sandpaper, coating the tip and the inside of the hosel with suitable epoxy, and assembling. It's usually recommended to knock some bumps into a metal shaft tip, to give the epoxy an uneven surface to hang onto. Graphite shafts need to have the outer coating removed first, since the epoxy won't stick to it. Most heads also require a ferrule, which is installed on the shaft before inserting it into the head. I won't go into the details of shaft trimming; it's too big of a topic. I recommend Dave Tutelman's club design pages to help you decide how long to make it; you'll also need the trimming instructions for your particular shaft.

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