Yes. The only way to do it is to get the head removed, and just put a new shaft and grip onto it.
THIS IS COMPLETELY WRONG. The head will be the wrong weight for a graphite shaft.
Actually it's not completely wrong. It's just fine to do. You just need the shafts longer in graphite to compensate for shaft weight. It makes it so swing weight stays the same. I answered more completely on a similar question.
Now making the shafts longer will require a flatter lie angle. Most people aren't fit that closely to notice but the 1/2 inch would make it so you would need to flatten you lie angle by .25 to .5 degrees.
Personally I check and adjust both lie angle and loft on any new club I buy as well as yearly on my old irons.
There are two types of golf shaft- Steel and Graphite. Generally steel is used on irons, wedges and putters, whereas graphite is mainly used for drivers and fairway woods. A new type of shaft has recently evolved it is the bi-matrix shaft which is steel and graphite.
I graphite shaft compared to a steel shaft on any club will give you more distance. For every club there will be roughly a five yard distance difference. You will hit the graphite further.
Yes, graphite shafts are far superior to steel shafts in terms of distance.
It depends on the butt size of the steel club and how wide the graphite shaft butt is. It is not really ideal to mix the composition of shafts in this way as it will drastically affect the swing weight. Yes it is true there are matrix shafts which have steel and graphite but these have been specifically designed for their purpose and work well. You would be best going and getting steel shaft extensions they are cheap enough.
They used a spear with stainless steel head and graphite shaft.
Graphite shafts are lighter and more flexible, which can help increase swing speed and distance. Steel shafts are heavier and offer more control and accuracy due to their rigidity. The choice between graphite and steel shafts ultimately comes down to personal preference and playing style.
The companies that make shafts for golf clubs will have a specification listed on the shaft itself such as "Stiff" of "Juniors". We call it "Flex". The flex standard may be the same on a graphite or steel shaft made by one company and nearly the same as made by another company. It is kind of like sizes for cloths. Both graphite and steel shafts come in "Stiff" flex. Companies may use the word "Mens" in place of "Stiff" or "Juniors" in place of a "not so stiff" shaft. Consult with your local Golf Coach or Golf Professional and they can explain more about the flex in a shaft or other things like "kick points" in a shaft.
Yes, they can. However steel shafts that are long enough to be a driver shaft are very uncommon, this is because they are so heavy and not as good as graphite ones. If you find a steel shaft that you would like put into your driver you will need to check the tip diameters are the same and your local pro or clubmaker should be able to do it for you easily.
If you are looking to fit a new graphite shaft to your club, I would say it doesn't matter which graphite shaft is the best but it is which one is best for you. Either a Grafalloy or Mitsubishi shaft, but they can be quite expensive.
The majority of them would, but quite a lot still use graphite shafts. Graphite shafts help launch the ball higher with their slower swing speeds.
It all depends on your swing speed and tempo, graphite is normally for a slower swing speed so you get more flex out of your shafts on the down swing. Go to a golf shop and ask to get your swing critiqued, they should be able to tell you what type of shaft you'll need for your swing. Hope that was helpful In my opinion, use steel for everything except possibly the driver. Steel is a lot cheaper and a lot more durable than graphite, and the advantages of graphite are pretty minimal. Steel shafts are also much more consistently manufactured, so you're more likely to get a consistent variation between adjacent clubs than with graphite. They also twist less under torque than even the best of graphite shafts. This means implies that you will probably get more consistent iron shots with steel than with graphite. Graphite shafts are lighter, so in principle a player should be able to generate a little higher clubhead speed with a graphite shaft. Getting a few extra yards out of your driver might be worth it. Probably not, though. A few extra yards down the fairway would be nice, but I'm more worried about staying IN the fairway. With your irons you don't care so much about maximum distance as accurate, known distance. If you hit every iron five yards further, you now have to hit a soft 8 instead of a normal 9. If you're that good, you probably already have a regular teaching pro, and you would have asked him. Take a specific 360 yard hole. With steel shafts, you hit a 220 yard drive, then a 7 iron to the green. With graphite, you hit a 230 yard drive, then a soft 8 iron to green. Assuming you hit both of them correctly, you're now on the green either way, but you paid an extra $100 for the graphite shafts. After hitting the graphite-shafted 8, are you now so much closer that you are more likely to one putt (or not three putt) than with the steel? Not likely. One possible exception to the above discussion is that graphite absorbs vibration better, so if you have sore hands it is said that it is a little more pleasant to play with graphite. Graphite shafts are manufactured a lot more consistent than you make them out to be. You should most definitely use a graphite shaft in your driver--if they weren't consistent why would Tour Pro's use them? It is also recommended to use them in fairways woods and/or hybrids unless you prefer the feel of steel. Well, NORMALLY if you a man then you get steel and if you a woman then you get graphite. But professionals (like me) get steel. With steel the club comes down harder giving the ball a tremendous power. Some men prefer graphite though because steel is hard to control. The first time I went to steel, i was hitting it horrible but now I'm hitting like a natural, future LPGA pro! Also if you like graphite better, stay with it, it's good to since it gives the ball a good WHIP. Have you seen Pro golfers slow motion back swing with the driver? I'm not sure if you have noticed, but the drivers shaft is amazingly bended which causes the club to make a WHIP which is a powerful thing so the ball can blast out for a hole in one! Graphite is usually 20-30% lighter than steel so you can indeed swing faster with less effort. Yes - cheap graphite has worse tolerance (even shaft wall thickness and even torque (twistiness)) than steel - which is bad. Good quality graphite is beneficial to most beginner to average golfers but lets get the cart before the horse. Most beginner to average golfers would do better to buy high quality steel ((True Temper Dynamic Gold Regular) and spend the money they saved on lessons and range balls.
The best way to cut a graphite shaft is to use a rotary tool with a cutting wheel specifically designed for cutting graphite. Make sure to measure accurately and mark the shaft before cutting to ensure the desired length is achieved. Always wear protective gear and work in a well-ventilated area when cutting graphite.