balance!
A surfer would be more concerned about a wave's amplitude and frequency. Amplitude determines the size and power of the wave, impacting the ride experience. Frequency indicates how quickly waves are approaching, affecting the surfer's ability to catch and ride them effectively.
A tubing wave is one that produces a tube, a tube is when the lip of the wave breaks in a circular form, and does it far from the face of the wave, letting a surfer enter it and being able to ride it.
For an experience surfer they generally ride along the curving/bowling face of the wave (known as the wall) from which they can perform numerous manoeuvres, while occasionally riding the bottom of the wave to pass a unmake-able section in the tube and even onto of the lip of the wave performing a 'floater'.For beginner surfers they usually ride the 'white-wash' (the broken wave) where it is easy to catch and normally longer that a unbroken wave breaking.
The cast of Wave Chasers - 2007 includes: Keallii Mamala as Big Wave Surfer Garrett McNamara as Big Wave Surfer
A wave surfer pod can typically hold 2-6 people, depending on the size and design of the pod.
tranverse waves
it is called 'surfer"
The surfer nearest the breaking part of the wave is seen as the "owner" of the wave in the unofficial rules of surfing culture, anyone in their path should supposedly get out of their way to allow them to ride the wave until the end. "Dropping in" on someone means to cut across the path of another surfer who was standing up before you on that wave, thus stealing the wave. This is seen as dangerous and bad manners, it spoils other surfers enjoyment of the sport and can cause collisions. People will of often be very angry if this happens, it is advisable to avoid such actions, experienced surfers may be more pateint with beginners not yet sure of surfing ettiquette but it is always best to know where you should be on a wave and when waiting for a wave and at what time.
The record for longest distance surfing a wave is held by Brazilian surfer, Picuruta Salazar. He surfed a tidal wave known as the "Pororoca" on the Amazon River in Brazil for 37 minutes while travelling 7.8 miles (12.5 km).
A wave hold down occurs when a surfer is submerged underwater by the force of a breaking wave. During a hold down, the surfer must remain calm and conserve oxygen while being pushed down by the wave's power until they can resurface safely. It can be a dangerous situation if the surfer is unable to reach the surface quickly or if they are held under for an extended period of time.
The Greatest Big Wave Surfer of all TIME!
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