sand the furniture down and the paint or stain it. sanding indicates you are going to use the existing finish as a base for a new final top coat involving the same type of finish or a more modern finish that is compatible with the original.
You might also consider stripping the old finish off, sanding, staining, and then refinishing.
stipping involves two basic kinds of product. water soluable and solvent soluable, meaning, how to wash off the stripper/old finish.
before refinishing consider the condition of the original finish. it just may need some cleaning and some tlc.
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You could take it to a professional refinisher called a 'luthier'. It is a very tedious and difficult process so it needs to be done with precision. To start the paint must be SANDED off. No chemicals should be used to remove the paint. The paint is usually very hard and thick so it may take a while. Access to a planer is very helpful in taking off the top and bottom coats of paint. Otherwise, use a tool with a very flat surface to take off the paint. Hand sanding will leave very small indentions by the fingers that won't show up until the final polish. Start with 60ppi sand paper and work down to 400 or greater.
You remove the existing finish, either by sanding or by chemical means like a paint remover paste. When all of the old finish is gone, you repair anything that needs to be fixed, then start re-finishing.
Some will caution that refinishing an antique significantly reduces its value. If you want to retain the antiques' value, it's a better idea to clean the surface with a nourishing wax compound, such as Briwax, and leave it alone. The scars and marks the piece has earned over time enhance its 'personality'.
However, if you are bent on refinishing an antique, you must remove the dirt and wax and stain that have accumulated on it over the years, and reveal the bare wood. If the piece is intricate, you can invest significant hand-work time in sanding and stripping off these elements. Once you've reached this point, you can refinish it in whatever style/ colour/ taste that suits you.
Before you begin your refinishing project, it's a good idea to remove any hardware, which you'll replace when your project is finished. Conduct the project in an open, well-ventilated area, because the products you'll use to strip it down to bare wood are toxic and harmful if breathed.
As well, if the piece is unstable in any way, once you've stripped it, you may want to shore-up its architecture with hidden supports.
you can paint them, or restain them. if painting lightly hand sand and then paint. if staining a darker color, sand lightly and then use a gel stain of the color desired to change the color and refinish. if a lighter color is desired you will have to remove all the old stain via sanding then stain the desired.
Before any restoration on these as they are kitchen units its advisable to take the door off. Examine it to make sure they are wood or real wood veneer else you may find that rubbing the surfaces to get a key for resurfacing will cause more damage than can be resolved.
Then, using a degreaser clean each of the surfaces completely - sanding will not always remove all of the naturally occurring oils and fats from surfaces plus of course these are in a kitchen where cleaners and such like are commonly used. - Clean the surfaces off to remove all the degreaser.
If the door are all solid wood and are painted rub down all of the surfaces including and beads with 100 grit sand papers and then wipe off debris and again sand back with 240 grit completely clean especially into corners, beads etc . This operation is to remove any major marks, open a key for painting and assist in leaving a very smooth surface.
PAINTING
Consider a good quality undercoat/primers. There are many that are water based now and dry quickly. apply a thin coat to the surfaces allow to dry and then check finish. If any marks are showing through rub the whole surface again with 240 grit, clean and apply 2nd primer/undercoat - allow to dry.
When happy - rub the surface again with a 240 grip, clean and then apply the topcoat. Allow to dry, 240 grit, clean it and again top coat. This will give a much more even finish, removes any brush making that can trap grease and the final job looks something to be proud of.
Remember to do all this a in a well vented room that is free of dust - i.e. a dusty old work shop will cause you a nightmare when looking for a finish
If the surface is stained or natural finish and then varnished. do the same rubbing down task. Wipe the surface clean and the again with a cotton cloth wipe teh surface with a white spirit dampened cloth - allow to dry. The white spirit takes off any residue grease especially from hands when handling. Apply a thin coat of varnish (unless you want a colour change then you need to apply the stain). You can by composite stain and varnish together but be aware of how that wood will look - test on a piece inside the door if require to make sure you like the end colour. Applying thin coats (at least 3) allowing drying time between and remember to very lightly sand with 240 grit between coats - clean the surface to stop particles being brushed in.
Take all the handles off the doors, if you have lots of time, take the hinges off too. lightly sand all the doors and frames, then paint them in Melamine paint. Unless you fit new hinge and handles, strip the paint off them and re-spray them your new colour
Remove hardware,clean ,sand , repaint per mfg. instructions install new hardware.
I have a leather sofa that i bought at a yard sale, it was green, id like to redye it brown.
It is a process to refinish a bathtub. 1st: you prep it, prep varies depending on the type of surface the bathtub is made of. 2nd: you dry, then repair all of the dings,dents,imperfections,and holes or scratches. 3rd: you mask around the bathtub, and cover any fixture which overspray may settle on. 4th: You spray paint it, just as if it were a car. (there are various types of paint for this) 5th: Take the masking off, and you're basically done. Of course there are way more details to cover than just that. Basically that is how you refinish a Bathtub. The best way to go about refinishing a bathtub is to hire an experienced Professional. I recommend ProBath if you're in San Diego.
its table salt,aka sodium chloride.
If it's a laminate, like Formica, there's nothing you can do but replace the area.If it's a solid surface, like Corian or butcherblock, you can sand it out and refinish the surface.
yes