The ignition only needs 12 volts for starting. You`re wiring harness has a resistance wire or ballast resistor to drop the voltage to keep the ignition coil from burning up.
1st there must be some reason as to why you are doing this. I don't feel it is ever a good idea to remove the battery cable while the engine is running. But if you must know, your engine can only keep running while it has 12 volts going to certain areas... such as coil and distributor. If it dies when you remove the battery then I would guess that the alternator is not working, which may be why you were testing this in the 1st place. A good test for your alternator is to put a volt meter across the battery and see the volts, then start the engine and see if the volts increase. If they dont and the volts are dropping then the alternator needs to be checked out.
The resister cuts the voltage to 6v.. in run pos,Will send 12v to coil in start pos.
With a fully charged battery (12.68 v) and the vehicle running, you should have aprox 14.2 volts at the battery connections. Do not disconnect the battery while engine is running, damage to the alternator can occur. If I read your question correctly, it sounds like the alternator is at fault.
One coil builds up a magnetic field when it is energized (and de-energized) and this induces an electric current in the other coil. The voltage produced in the second coil is determined by the number of coils wound on it compared to the first coil. This is called the turns ratio and only works with alternating current unless you are using it with a dc battery to make a spark in an ignition coil. examples primary 100 turns, secondary 200 , is a step up transformer ie from 10 volts AC to 20 volts AC 100 turns primary, 50 turns secondary, step down transformer ie from 10 volts AC to 5 volts AC
probably your coil, fairly cheap and easy to fix.
Check your alternator, Mine did the exact thing. The Battery light and the !!BRAKE!! Light came on and couldn'y figure it out for the hell of me, did volt tests while running and only had 12.5 volts on the battery. I changed the alternator ($179.99) and got back to the normal 14 or so volts while running and lights shut off. no idea why the brake light was on at all.
Primary and secondary are only terms of convenience based on the ratings and purpose of the transformer. If a transformer is labeled 120 to 240 volts, just pick a winding and apply 120 VAC. If the output is 240 volts you found the primary and secondary. If you apply 120 volts and get 60 volts out that means the side where you applied 120 VAC is the secondary.
Your alternator is not charging. When a vehicle with a 12 volt system is running, the alternator normally puts out at least 13.5 to 14.5 volts More than that, the battery is overcharged. Under that, the alternator is not functioning and it is running only off the battery voltage.
Volts? Well my friend, i can hold 5 tons and only use the small amount of voltage running through my body...be more specific.Kadius1964~blog me.
First, make sure the battery is good. Check it with a volt meter, with engine off you must have a little more than 12 volts. With engine running at idle you will have around 13 volts, and at say 2000 rpm you should have anywhere from 13.8 to 14.5 volts. If when the engine is running and all is good, then replace the battery, if the charge is still at only 12 volts when the engine is running, then it would be the stator. That's the charging system. Now, just depends what make of bike.
fuel pump will only run when ign on for few seconds to pressurise system and will only pump while cranking or eng running,this is normal. most likely cause is ign module or coil which are both in distributor.
if one of your coil packs goes bad it will only run on 2cylinders