If the hosel is broken, it's probably not worth fixing. If the shaft has broken, leaving you with a clubhead with a little bit of shaft down in the hosel, it's not a big deal to re-shaft it. A local Golf shop can do it, or you can use it as your excuse to explore the wonderful world of clubmaking. Best case there's enough of the broken shaft sticking out so that you can grab it with vise-grips. Heat the hosel with a propane torch until the epoxy bond fails, then twist the broken piece out. If not, you can use a shaft extractor, which is like a screw extractor (a.k.a. an easy-out to get a grip on the shaft, then heat it with a torch as before. Either way, once you get the hosel cleaned out, re-shaft as usual.
You can most definitely drill the excess shaft that is broken off in the hosel if that is the case, then if you want, you CAN make an even cut across the old shaft, as low as possible, and use that shaft to reshaft, but that will result in a club up to 2 inches shorter. Regardless, if you do reshaft, find the strongest epoxy you can, because I have been reshafting clubs for a good while and I have given up on the cheap stuff, it just doesn't cut it. (Especially on irons)
Your local pro can and will repair the club if it is worth repairing, but don't bother if it's not worth more than $50-$100.
You can reshaft yourself by drilling out the old piece of shaft left in the head or heat the shaft/head up to break the old glue bond and pull. Find a local place that sells heads, shafts, etc of try www.golfsmith.com. They have a wealth of information.
A replacement blade can be put into a tapered shaft as long as the blade has a tapered hosel. A standard hosel blade will not fit into a tapered shaft. The tapered shaft must also actually be a shaft and not a recently broken one-piece stick. Some players try to cut broken blades off of one-piece sticks and then think they can replace the blade in the remaining shaft. This can work in principle but only at the expense of the natural performance of the stick. It is generally not recommended.
Yes it is a one piece shaft.
The front axle shaft will be cv style, so zero there.The front drive shaft would have three.The rear drive shaft would have two if it is a one piece shaft, three if a two piece shaft.The front axle shaft will be cv style, so zero there.The front drive shaft would have three.The rear drive shaft would have two if it is a one piece shaft, three if a two piece shaft.
A shaft sleeve is a piece of metal tubing placed over the shaft to protect as it passes through the packing area.
Thrust Washer stop the play of the connecting rods on the crank shaft.
this requires a drive shaft company that can cut and weld it and balance it after.
You would need a drive shaft from a suburban
1) More torque can be put through the shaft 2) Can be used on longer Vehicles Without the whiping effect Akray
In ice hockey, sticks may incorporate metal, and aluminum is a common choice to make the whole shaft from. In field hockey, metal is banned from use in sticks for safety reasons.
400 has a longer stroke
A 2-piece prop shaft offers several advantages, including reduced weight, which can improve overall vehicle performance and efficiency. It allows for greater flexibility in design, accommodating larger vehicles and varying distances between the transmission and differential. Additionally, a 2-piece shaft can help minimize vibrations and improve ride comfort by using a center support bearing to stabilize the shaft. This design also facilitates easier installation and maintenance compared to a single-piece shaft.
almost every head fits on every shaft. Excluding the kyle harrison sticks and head which have a tilt and only work on the stx cranckshaft 10degree shaft