What BMX bike should you get if you don't want to spend much more than 400 Australian dollars?

Answer 1

Consider a used one. There is more value there, and you won't be paying for "hype" sold by new equipment manufacturers. New bikes are nice, but think this through. You will have to shop smart, of course, and some questions arise. Grab a seat and lift the tab on a cold Pepsi. You gonna bust a move on a 20" unit or go cruiser class with the 24" wheels? How old are you and how tall are you? It makes a bit of difference. And what are you planning on doing with the bike? Racing? Tricks and stunts? Transportation to and from school on something that rocks? Or just some styling around the neighborhood? These will have a lot to do with what you zero in on. For $400 Aus (max) you should get a killer bike. I'd expect a 3-piece crank (and a good one, not one of those 2-ton monsters of solid steel). A cartridge bottom bracket, too. Sealed bearings, the works. And with a nice straight frame and fork. Few if any scratches. Certainly nothing that's been thrashed. Maybe aluminum, maybe steel. Maybe polished, chrome or painted. Some bike shops sell used bikes. They can do an evaluation on any bike for you, too. Why not ask in advance what their rates are for a pre-sale evaluation of a privately owned bike? Hey, we're just gettin' started, dude. If you're gonna look at used bikes, ask for the history of the bike before you look it over closely. Let the owner tell you what the bike has been used for and how long. You will compare what he says about how the bike was used against what you see when you look at the bike later. Listen carefully, and ask a few simple questions for clarification. There are things to look for. Take inventory, and start by flipping the bike to check the wear on the tires. Do the front and rear tires match? Mismatched tires mean wear or damage to a tire and the installation of a replacement. Does having a tire replaced square with the history you took? After checking the rubber, try giving the wheels a spin and looking at them. How do they look? Hold a popsicle stick against a seat stay or chain stay and let it just barelytouch the rim. Same on the front, but put your stick on the fork. Does the rim rub gently all the way around? Or, if you leave a small gap, does that gap remain constant through the whole rotation of the wheel? It should on a tuned wheel. The rims shouldn't be scratched, and they better not be dinged. If the wheel is true, are all the spokes tensioned, and evenly so? If the wheel is out of true, the spokes may have some loose one in their number. A wheel that is just a bit out of true can be trued by adjusting the spokes. That's what they're for. But think about it. Wheel truing is done with a jig and by an experienced hand. Hubs should be of some kind of alloy. And get some with sealed cartridge bearings if you can. Leave the cones and loose ball bearings to the geeks and freaks. Wheels (and their spokes and hub sets) are money on a bike. They are arguably the single most important part of the machine. You can get burned in any kind of competition if you're ridin' phat with your 3-piece and an aluminum frame and bunk wheels when someone with a steel frame, an Ashtabula crank and tuned wheels rolls on you. Oh, and in case you didn't get it, an Ashtabula crank is the "old school" name for the one-piece style crank made in the U.S. by the Ashtabula folks. School's still in. Quit lookin' at the clock. Spin the pedals. Do they spin freely and evenly? You can replace pedals and they don't cost a fortune, plus you can get a set suited to your riding and your taste. But the pedals are an indication to what kind of treatment the bike had. Are they bent? If so, the bike may have been hammered during use. Lots of easy miles put a bit of wear on a bike, but just a few miles of hard use ruin a bike. Use the pedals as a guidepost. And look at the outer ends of them to see how scratched or ground down from heavy abrasion they appear. Are there "new" pedals on a "used" bike? They have have been replaced. Move on to the chain, chain ring and cog. The bike's still upside down from your wheel evaluation, isn't it? So how does the chain look? Is it clean? Abraded? Take a paper towel (or not, if you're a tough guy) and grip the chain in the middle and give it a slight twist. You'll be twisting it "around" its direction of travel to see how much its worn. The more it twists, the more it's worn. New chains don't like to twist. Roll the crank slowly and stand behind the bike to look along the chain line. Are the crank arms staying "in line" as the go 'round? Both of them? Is the chainring true? Does it stay "flat" as you turn the cranks? After you stop turning the cranks, use your paper towel to wipe a few of the exposed teeth of the chainring and the cog? How much wear do you see? A little? A lot? You looked at pedal ends, now look at the handlebar ends, or, rather, the ends of the handlebar grips. Are they good looking, torn a bit or missing entirely exposing the bar ends? Grips are not expensive, but they tell you things like the pedals do. Take note. Are the ends of the axles unmarked, or do they look they look they've been ground on? That plays to how the bike was treated, like pedal end wear and handlebar grip end wear. How's the seat? A tear means wear. That's a starting checklist. Your bike shop can help you with more things to look for, or can do the looking for a small fee. Shopping for a used unit can save you some bucks and get you a lot more bike for the same money. Don't be clowned by the big ads the manufacturers post about this bike or that bike being the "newest technology" or the killer machine ridden by Jack "the Hammer" Hammersmith (a made up name). Bike manufacturers sponsor events and sell bikes. Of course you can't hope to win the big races without their newest bike. Yeah, right. Think about the options you have. Brand name isn't always the end all, be all that some say it is. And you can get a used well known brand name bike for less than your maximum limit as regards price.

Answer 2

you should look at the eastern traildigger or the eastern battery those are 4 hundred. You should also look at the dk helio bike on dans comp that is a really nice bike. Ans you should look at some haro's.