It could mean low comp.But a 125 has very little compression and a very short stroke.
Gearing ratio is a lot less also for the kick to be easy.
No compression could be various things from your piston to your crank start with your piston by doing a compression test
It could be a few things. Mostly likely a leaking head gasket, worn out piston, piston rings or cylinder.
yeah men
AGE ! if it is low compression and not no compression then your piston rings and valves are worn too much and the engine probably needs to be rebuilt.
The engine will be losing compression, and possibly burning oil. Check each cylinder to determine the compression. The loss could also be caused by a valve problem.
Take a compression test Could be a bad head gasket Bad plugs? Bad wires?
need more information but could be something as serious as a blown piston. Piston could be jammed so the kick starter wont move also.
Burnt Valve, worn piston rings, blown head gasket, or cracked head.
If there is NO compression on any of the cylinders, you've probably slipped the timing belt/chain. Just knowing that there is no compression is insufficient information to make a decision about replacing the engine. You COULD need to have the engine rebuilt, or it's possible that a valve "kissed" a piston and the engine is toast. Or... it could be something else. If it's just low compression in one or two cylinders, it could even be caused by burned or sticking valves.
zero deck means to have the block shaved down so the piston crown is the same height . most stock engines have .003-.005 clearence from the deck down to the piston. depending on the compression chamber size of the head, this could put the compression ratio upwards of 10 to 1. that puts you using racing fuel. could get expensive. there are several ways to get power without excessive compression. maybe forced induction? blower or turbo?
-bad piston rings -hole in the piston (caused by preignition a condition that occurs mainly when low grade gas is used on higher compression engines ex. an acura rsx has 11:1 compression from he factory so if cheap gas is used is ignites to soon and could cause ring or piston damage) -blown headgasket (car will pour out smoke from the tail pipe) -or bad valves With the little information giving this is all the help I can give. Is it all cylinders? One cylinder? If more than one than which ones etc
If you have the serial number of the car that the engine originally came from, there is usually certain letters or codes which correspond to the motor. Also, if you do a little bit of research you might be able to translate any codes or stampings on the motor itself. This will only be helpful if the motor is still at the original specs and has not been modified or rebuilt with different components that could alter the compression ratio. If you are totally unsure of the history of the particular engine, you can't find any stampings, or if its had any work done to it that could alter the compression, then you almost certainly must dissemble and measure all of the cylinder volume divided by the compression volume at top dead center of the piston travel, this includes combustion chamber volume of the cylinder head. Therefore if one cylinder has a volume of 50 cubic inches and the compression volume is 5 cubic inches, the compression ratio is 10:1, unfortunately this can only be done by really disassembling the engine, so sorry. just to be sure you really don't mean a regular compression test. that can be done with a gauge screwed into the spark plug hole. This regular compression test is done to each cylinder and is most useful to determine if any cylinders have substantially lower compression than rest. This could indicate a problem with the head gasket, valve train or piston rings. The readout from a regular compression test, done at the spark plug hole, is in Psi and can not really be used to determine what the compression "ratio" is.