you have to remove the interior panel. You did not state what year your Jeep is.Very carefully pop the panel out a little bit, you should have 2 screws in the bottom corners.The panel must be raised UP a bit to pull out. Take your time and damage will be minimal.good luck, Mike
Just below the intake manifold. Sorry to say, it is a bit of a pain....but if you jack it up and crawl underneath it is fairly easy to access. Your hands might have to go at some pretty weird angles so the higher you can get it (safely) the better off you are for movement.
top center of dash board
there is a small button just above the heater vents to pop it open
See http://wiki.answers.com/Q/How_do_you_remove_the_starter . In the service panel, under the drivers seat is where you start. You will find three main starter bolts, and a couple of smaller ones on a small plate on top and is used as a top brace, steadying the starter from the top. The main bolts you need to get to from underneath. If you are getting the intermittent clicks, there is some good news. I did the first one at 194k, and later found out you can just replace the copper "L" contacts inside the starter. Toyota dealers sell a rebuild kit for less than $15.00. It only includes the bigger of the two contacts (positive terminal), but that is generally all you will need. You will find the contacts by taking off the end, and removing two long bolts, and opposite the bell shaped end. The hardest thing is getting the starter out. The rest is easy.
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On my 1991 AWD, the two contacts were the same size (smaller). Only one was worn. The starter is easier to identify from underneath. The lower (17mm) bolt also holds a shaft bearing on the AWD. There are 3 14mm upper bolts; the middle one is shorter and does not need to be removed.
spark plugs are under drivers seat , what a pain but easy . four 15mm bolts on seat 2 on handbrake then lift carpet the rest are 13mm bolts about 10 of them , then remove cover , under that there is three 10mm bolts which holds a plastic cover on which hides the plugs , u will need a 16mm spark plug spanner :O)
There was no 2008 Previa made. Production on the Toyota Previa ended in 1997. On 1997 and older models, the bolt for dropping the spare tire can be found underneath the edge of the carpet in center of inside after opening tail gate. Look for what appears to be slight cut in carpet starting at rear and going forward. The bolt holding the spare tire can be found there. Use appropriate socket wrench or 4 way lug wrench to remove bolt.
Do not have feet or other body parts underneath spare tire as when bolt releases spare could hit them.
the reason for the air being warmer on one side than the other is because the mecanism that provide air intake in the ac system has the foam sealer worn out it need a new sealer if you remove the air duck unther the hood you will see the problem on the cap that seal the air that goes in to the car
the knock sensor cuts the engine out so it won't damage the car if not replaced, the car just won't work.
The engine will overfill w/ oil & your engine will be damaged, if any oil is left in the oil tank under the hood. That is where it is trying to pump from to get to your oil pan.
You can spend $250. for the replacement part @ Toyota + labor or
remove it & clean all contacts & free the float, or
just disconnect the dang thing along w/ the under hood tank.
Then just check the oil level yourself regularly, as U are supposed to just like any other car or truck. (except the Previa's oil dipstick & fill tube is under the drivers seat. Not hard to get at, just what it is)
I'm not sure in which year the model changed (I have the 'old' shape with one side door), mine, according to Totota's Qwners Handbook says 2.5 litres (Dexron). Good luck.
I just had to do this on mine. The washer pump is attached to the lower front of the washer reservoir. The reservoir is located in the area located below the battery. I had to access it from underneath the van behind the front bumper. It helped a lot to jack up the front passenger side corner of the van. Then you can access it easier from underneath and from in front of the wheel. The first thing to do is to drain the reservoir. I just used a screw driver to pry off one of the hoses attached to the pump and the fluid came pouring out. I lodged a wrench on the nozzle so that the fluid would pour down into a bucket.
Then detach the reservoir from the vehicle. It is attached with 2 bolts on the driver side and 1 bolt on the other side of the reservoir. I also had to undo a small brace that is attached below the reservoir. I undid the one side of the brace I could get to then just gently bent it out of the way. Once you have the reservoir loose you can drop it straight down but you will have to undo the hoses and the power coupling. Press in on the bottom part of the coupling to get it to release.
With the reservoir completely out you can just pop the pump out of the tank. If you are using a original replacement part you could just put the new one in and reverse the procedure.
I didn't have the money to spend on that so I just bought a universal pump. It has a grommet that allows it to fit correctly in the hole. I couldn't find one that had the duel outlet for both the front and back washers so I just hooked up the front washers. The pump cost $16. I had to do a little testing to figure out which 2 of the 3 wires ran from the front washer button. Then I used some electrical connectors that came with the pump that tied the wires from the new pump to the wires above the coupling. That way I could leave the coupling in place if I need it at some future date. I also had to figure out which hose led to the front washers by trial and error.
I did all this by attaching the pump to the tank, putting a little fluid in it and placing it loosely in the area it installs. It had to be close enough that I could make the connections for the tubes and wiring. It was a little messy but I got it done. Once I had the connections made it was just a matter of attaching the reservoir and putting the little brace back in place.
A diagram of a 1991 Toyota starter relay switch can be obtained from most Toyota dealerships. The starter relay diagram can also be found at most auto-parts stores.
I believe this is the same vehicle as the Toyota Tarago from Australia.
In the Tarago you access the resistor from within the engine compartment. To do this on the 2.4 petrol model, you need to follow these steps.
NOTE: you may need to unmount the radiator overflow bottle and gently move it far enough aside to get at the rest of the bits.
1. lift the bonnet/hood and remove the blower intake (4 screws hold it in)
2. remove the top half of the radiator fan shroud (4 screws - 2 top, 2 half way down) you may need to turn it a little as you pull it out and also the fan a little to give enough room to do it
3. Under the blower there is a cover retained by 3 screws underneath, (one each side at the rear and one at the front right of the cover.) There is also a 10mm bolt holding it on the right hand side.
4. After removing this cover you will see a rectangular plate with a plug and two screws underneath at the back.
5 Unclip the plug and undo the two screws.
6 Remove this plate and the resistor block is mounted to the other side of it.
Reassembly is a reverse of the removal.
Cheers
Derek
The dashboard on a Toyota Previa is held on with several bolts. All must be removed. After the bolts are removed so must be the remaining clips. The dashboard that has to be carefully removed from the cabin of the vehicle.
start by gently removing the keepers at the panel you have to get inside to get panel out after that you see the retainers the rear roller is, if you open the door a little you will see them is easy to take them out but to install`m you will need somebody to help you hold the door and have to be properly adjusted,i myself as a toy tech don`t recomend to anybody to this ps:for the rear roller you have to get right by the rear of the door to see the retainers