I own a 1991 Mazda 929 and recently faced the same dilemma. The upper hose is a 'no-brainer' on mine because it is a simple bend located high on the firewall that continues to the left hand side of the engine. The lower hose drops down from its connection, disappearing beneath the exhaust manifold in the direction of the right hand side of the engine. I found that the only way to access it was from beneath the car. By removing the engine starter there is just enough room to reach the hose at its connection point on the engine block behind the motor mount. Good Luck!

If you look at the radio/cassette part (the separate CD part below as well) you'll notice two little indents on each side. (They may be covered with little rubber plugs.) There's an inexpensive tool, that looks like a tiny metal u-shaped wicket, that inserts into the small indents and pops the unit. The radio removal tool is sometimes listed as a Ford part. They are commonly called DIN removal tool.

You will need to remove the #2 Phillips screw on the back of the radio before using the tool.

Most people insert DIN removal tools too deep and can actually bend the spring the wrong way causing the radio to be locked into place. Insert the din removal tools slowly until you feel the springs and a slight click where the tools pop into place. Spread the tools outward (away from each other) only about 3/4 of an inch, then pull. The radio should slide out of the compartment. Disconnect the 2 harness plugs, antenna plug, and steering wheel control plug.

IMPORTANT: The 1992-95 Mazda 929 radio has a theft-deterant feature that disables the radio when it is removed. When it is reinserted you have to type in the four digit code to reactivate. If the wrong code is put in three times it permanently disables the unit. You need to know this four digit code BEFORE removing the unit. If you do not know the code , check your owners manual on how to input a four digit code of your choosing before taking out the unit.

Disconnect battery and pump brake 30times let sit for 30mins. reconnect battery and your away.

Put it this way, if it were a 2.0 engine it is 2 litres. 2.5 would be 2.5 litres.

Therefore 3.0 = ..........?

One useful trick for removing the crank bolt on the crank pulley is to place a breaker bar with socket (highly recommend a 1/2" setup in the minimum as 3/8" sockets don't fair well with high amounts of torque) on the crank bolt so as the handle of the breaker bar is resting against the frame of the vehicle and the socket is firmly on the crank bolt. Do bare in mind that the engine turns clockwise (some few motors do turn counter clockwise-- please check service manual to determine direction of rotation) as this will affect the location of the handle. Once the breaker bar is in place you will want to "bump" the motor or in other words start the car but only long enough to allow one or two rotations of the engine and absolutely no more. Once this is done the crank bolt should be finger loose. This information is provided in that the bolt may be holding you back and with the utmost caution as this is a risky procedure in which someone could be hurt by flying tools or that damage may occur to the crank bolt or frame if poor judgment is used in the correct placing of the tool. Otherwords, make sure the socket is firmly on the bolt and that the handle is not going to crush something weak such as a plastic piece or something of the sort. Good Luck!

its located in the rear towards the drivers side

First of all, it'll take most of the day to do. Start by taking all the attachments to the plenum on both sides of the engine. Remember where everything was attached. There is a fuel line on the rear of the plenum on the passenger side that is bolted to the plenum. Then unscrew the bolts on top of the plenum and lift the plenum up from the engine. There are two more vacuum hoses that are in the bottom rear of the plenum that needs to be disconnected before the plenum can be completely removed from the engine. They will be hard to reconnect. The main thing is to remember where all the vac hoses goes and where the wire harnesses are attached. Remember the firing order of the spark plug wires. Don't buy the gaskets from the dealer.....too expensive. Try Pep Boys or Advanced Auto. They may have to order them, but they'll be in the store the next day. You will need the complete valve cover gasket kit with the goumets for the screws, and a plenum gasket. Once you place the gaskets on and reassemble the parts, make sure you torque the valve covers and plenum bolts by the manufacturer's specifications. It's a time consuming job. I did mine in about 8 to 9 hours. You may want consider purchasing the parts and have a garage put them on for you. It's not like in the old days where it was easy to get to the valve covers. Good luck. The valve cover gasket kit was $59.00 at Pep Boys and the Plenum gasket was $6.00 at Advance Auto. Most places want over $100.00 for the valve cover gaskets. The dealer wanted $139.00 for the $6.00 gasket that I got from Advanced Auto.

I have a Mazda 929 (1993) I had the same problem last year...I got a new alternator, and some new wires and spark plugs. Haven't had a problem with it since.

the specks fore the head bolts are 13 to 15 fp to start and then turn 1/4 turn let it set fore 5 min then a another 1/4 turn. thay should be about 75 to 85 wen you are done.

According to the owner's manual, the light is flashing because the transaxle has an electrical problem. Continuing to drive with it in this condition could cause damage to the unit.

There is usually no transmission cap. The tube that the tranny dip stick is in is where you add fluid if it is an automatic. You usually need a funnel that has a longer neck on it. If it isa standard then there is a check bolt that you remove and add fluid that way. Good luck.

I have sometimes found that the adapter that you screw onto the old fitting simply does not open the valve. Haven't really looked to see why, possibly doesn't screw on far enough to engage the old fitting. Have bought a separate fitting and worked fine.

The thermostat, on your 1992 Mazda, can be found on the front bottom portion of the engine. You can follow the water hose from the bottom of the radiator to the thermostat.

with a few wrenches

As I managed Midas store, I had my best tech install aftermarket alarm with remote start and he spent whole winter trying to disable factory alarm on my wife's 92' 929 - he previously worked as an installer. It took me one evening to find that the only solution is to move trunk sensor out of position which is in the bottom part of the trunk latch. You will lose trunk light, but so far this the only way.

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if you have an old car by the book,there is atrick to it that holds the timing cam chaft pullrey and crnkshaft pulleys they hold them place for perfect iming and change the oil seals cam and crank because it takes a llot of work so that you dont need to go back for them seals,if you still have a brand new car then dealer they do excellent perfections in timing belts and water pumps,specially oil seals and timing jeeze if you want it alittle loose that will be the perfect timing,hope it helps!

in the back where the speakers are you have to take out the pannel covering the speakers it snaps out then you should see the screws.Then in the front doors remove the screw in the pocket you use to close the door and there is also one behind the handle to open the door there is a square piece that snaps out and that is covering that screw. then tou have to remove the door panel by snapping it out of place and lifting up this might be difficult.once again you should see the screws last but not least GOOD LUCK its a pain it took me so long to get this done but its well worth it. the hardest part is taking this car apart