65 mphis not the real top speed for a 2008 kx85 the 1999 kx85 does about 80-90 mph i raced it with my dads car, he said i toped out at 95mph on a straight away down the road so a 2008 maybe does 100mph cause i lost to my brothers
I have same bike,
1. Take of rear seat with key.
2. look inside and you can actually see under the front one.
3. you can see that it has a metal latch holding it there.
4. you need to undo the metal latch, the screw will probably be quite tight but it will come of.
5. once undone, take the screw and metal latch out.
6. you should be able to take seat right out
How to remove.
1988-1995 Kawasaki Klf Bayou 220 rear brake drum.
1. Remove the rear wheel
2. Pull the cover off the grove in the end of the brake drum.
3. Remove and discard the axle nut cotter pin.
4. Loosen and remove the axle nut and washer.
5. Slide the brake drum off the rear axle and remove it.
Note: The brake drum should slide off the rear axle with little or no effort. If the brake drum is tight, Loose the brake adjuster.
I hope this help's.
Really you can tell it just by looking at the bike. The design changes significantly every year. Find samples of bikes on google image search and compare. I guess there are more elaborate ways of doing it, but this is quite accurate and most importantly, simple.
Some possibilities include:
Weak battery and or loose/corroded connections
A faulty starter solenoid
A faulty starter
And hopefully not this, but possibly a locked up engine.
Through the sight glass on the left side of the engine, low, near the footpeg. Hold the bike upright, on level ground, and the oil should be a little more then 1/2 way up the sight glass. Visit ZL-OA.com for all things Eliminator related!
you will need 10-40w oil,17mm socket and wrench,a open container ie.an old paint tin,a measuring jug 1000ml and a medium sized funnel.
First run your bike for 10 mins to warm up your engine so the oil to be removed is thinned out swich engine off and place your bike on its centre stand .Then look for the boltunder the engine casing next to the triangular shaped casting with a similar bolt head in the centre of the triangle.Put your open container under this area ready to catch the oil,then take your 17mm wrench/socket and turn anti clockwise to loosen off this bolt.Once you remove this a spring and a flat headed metal insert will fall out as will the oil.Allow a good 15mins for all the old oil to drain out,place the sump bolt ,spring and metal pin insert somewhere safe.Your engine will require 1100ml of oil,measure this out in a clean measuring jug.Once the oil as drained replace the metal pin into the spring the pins top is thelarger side up ,the slendermain body sits into the spring,push this up back into the sump return sump bolt behind this springtighten and fill oil at the access point on the engine above where the back brake peddle is...it says 10-40 1100ml screw this cap back on check your oil window it should line up with te mark F...and thats it all done
it
Stand the bike upright and examine the coolant gauge.
remove the front cover, disconnect the turn signals wires and the two nuts that whole the gages, then down under the ignition switch and remove the two Allen screws and disconnect the wiring. install your new one ignition switch in reverse to the instructions.
You should start out by getting the engine warmed up to its normal operating temp. Next, you want to place your ATV on a level surface and remove the drain plug from the motor. You will find a round hole in the factory skid plate, this is where you find the drain plug. Using a 14mm socket, remove the plug and let the oil drain. The oil will be pretty warm when you pull the plug away from the case, so be prepared for that. Be patient and allow all of the oil to drain, not just most of it. While the oil is draining you should remove the black plastic cover on the left side of the engine. this is the cover that has the oil fill hatch on it. Remove the Phillips head screws, there should be about five or so, and pull the cover off. This will expose the spin on oil filter. Remove any dirt or debris from around the filter to keep it from falling into the crankcase when you're spinning the filter off. I like to place a rag under the filter to catch all of the oil and prevent it from running down the skid plate and making a mess. Always use the appropriate oil filter wrench and never puncture the filter with a screwdriver; you run the risk of breaking the threaded boss off of the crankcase. Any parts store sells oil filter wrenches and they would be glad to match your filter to the proper filter wrench. When all of the oil has drained, inspect the washer on the drain plug. If you see any cracks or fragmenting on the edges, replace it. It's always a good idea to have one on hand, especially if you plan on doing all of your oil changes yourself. Clean and re-install the plug. Be sure not to over tighten it. The plug just needs to be snugged a little once it seats against the case. Wipe the flat, smooth surface on the motor where the oil filter seats. Inspect the area to see if any metal chips or unusual material is visible. This could be an indication of a failed part inside the motor. A dab of oil on your finger can be used to lubricate the O ring on the filter. This prevents binding when the O ring meets the case as it spins on. Let the filter seat against the case and just give it an additional 1/4 of a turn. Replace the plastic cover and use some anti-seize on the screws to keep them from giving you any trouble the next time you change your oil. Now add your oil until it is between the upper and lower marks on the dip stick. Run the motor for a few seconds and let the oil settle, then re-check the oil. Add if necessary.
Pull the right analog stick down and when it gets to the power of the kick that you want you flick it forward. To change the direction in which you kick it you move the left stick left and right.
hey.. the only way to check a coil of any kind is with an ohm meter,,,if it's bad it will show nothing or infinity... if it is good it should have at least 8 dependant upon the resistance but could be higher... i can't remember if too high means corosion or not but i know you can get the numbers from the manufacturer
28 psi in front tire & 32 psi in rear tire - per Kawasaki Owner's Manual.
Big & Rich is one of the famous country bands, who happened to perform in my town earlier this year.
Often, the VIN numbers are located right under the seat on the vertical panel. If they are not there, you may find them when you fold the seat up. If not there, pop up the bed and look on any frame work to where it could be stamped.
::You will find the VIN on your Kawasaki utility vehicle stamped into the frame front cross member between the front wheels of the MULE 520 and 550, or on the right side frame tube just behind the radiator grill at the front of the MULE 2500, 2510, and 2520.::
:: The Mongst ::
honda is a better motorcross bike (250 and 450) and yamaha is a better trail bike
Take a small cup and pour just a bit into the cup. If the gas has been premixed with oil it will be a color depending on what type of oil you use. On my 2 stroke gas can, I always dump the oil in the can first, then take a piece of duct tape and write how many gallons of gas is needed for the amount of oil I have in the can and buy my gas on the way to go ride. If I change my mind on riding that weekend, I don't have premix gas going bad in the garage and I have a reminder of how much gas to add at a later time.
70-75mph.
There Very Very Under rated 2 strokes.... there fast and mean, but they have horrible handling, so i wouldn't suggest going 70-75 mph..
If your referring to the bluish/purple color that's from heat. The is some stuff you can treat your pipes with don't remember what it is called. But you can get it at any Harley Davidson dealer. They put it on chrome pipe to keep them from turning blue.
I'll add-it never worked for me
around 75mph? or so.. very fast aceleration with a custom air fillter