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Grand Am GT

The Grand Am GT was a rebadged fourth-generation model of the Pontiac Grand Am manufactured by General Motors from 1992 to 1995. The car featured a 3.3-liter Buick V6 engine, and a five-speed manual and three-speed automatic transmission.

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'93 Pontiac grand am engine knocking noise?

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my grand am had an engine knocking noise. it was the intake manifold gasket was going bad. it was leaking coolant into my oil. look at your oil to see if it is a white milky color. if it is then you need a new manifold gasket which sucks. it takes a long time to do by yourself. or you can take it to a place that charges you $1000 to do. but if you can. do it yourself

Where is the transmission speed sensor on 1995 Toyota Avalon?

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The Direct Clutch Speed Sensor is on top of the transmission (in front of the driver) and secured by a 12mm bolt to the transmission casing. It looks like a vertical black tube with an arm that extends toward the driver with the bolt at the end. The top of the tube has a black connector plugged onto it with two wires that join a major wiring harness a few inches away.

How do you remove the ignition switch from the dash board of a 2002 Pontiac Grand Am?

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best to read up... Everyone should have a manual for their vehicle, and a professional shop manual should be available at your local library, just make copies of the right pages, as they are usually REFERENCE only...read up and good luck :)

Why 1994 V6 4 Runner no start fuel ok no spark?

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It could be the timing belt jumps (wrong timing spark) or the faulty pressure regulator (to much fuel ro to little)

Your 1985 Toyota pickup turns over but won't start has no fire from coil wire?

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first i would check your coil, if its good, check your ignition switch.

Why wont my 1996 Pontiac Bonneville start?

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[check your starter. that was the problem with mine. 94 G20] Original Answer

We just fixed my sister's '95 G20 start problem and ours was a recessed pin in a connector in the starter relay wire (the small wire that's attached to the starter). but there are a few tests you can do;

1. This one is simple: make sure everything is hooked up like you were going to start it on a normal day, then turn your headlights on and try to start it. If it sounds like it tries and the headlights dim (even a little) it's likely a dead battery. if there's a click/no click and then nothing and headlights don't dim, you've got an open somewhere in the starter circuit.

2. If the engine cranks over no problem, but just won't start firing and driving itself, you've likely got either a dead fuel pump or a clogged fuel line/filter.

3. have someone listening under the hood when you turn the key to the on position to make sure the clutch inhibitor relay is clicking (should click once when the key is turned to the on position).

If you're a Do-It-Yourselfer, here's some solutions you can try. If not, take it to a mechanic and tell him/her your findings and let them go from there.

1. If you have a multimeter/voltmeter and ohmmeter, you can investigate an open fairly easily-BE CAREFUL with the voltmeter test as you will have to have the battery plugged in. start by pulling the starter fuse (if it's like my sister's, it'll be tucked underneath the front driverside quarter panel under the hood, (should be able to access it just behind the battery). you can do an ohm test on the fuse itself to make sure it's good (if it's not transparent, otherwise just look at the metal arch inside it to see if it's separated). then a voltage test with the red lead in one side of the fuse plug and the other on the negative side of the battery or a good ground like the frame or the engine; you should get 11.9v-12.4v. (if you don't get voltage try moving the red lead to the other side of the fuse plug). Do you get voltage? Yes: your issue is farther down the line, closer to the starter motor. No: you have an open between your battery and the fuse. continue testing this way all the way to the starter motor. once on the other side of the ignition switch you can switch to ohm testing, just make sure the key is in the OFF position or you'll fry your tester. Here's a couple wiring diagrams for manual or automatic transmission:

How do you turn on the radio in a 1997 Pontiac Grand Am?

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Push volume knob? Yeah, you would think, but this radio doesn't have a push button and it doesn't "turn" on either...any other suggestions? thx :)

How much does it typically cost to replace the starter on a 2001 Dodge Stratus?

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i just had one replaced last week in a 96 model explorer, the starter was 160 and with labor it was about 250.00. or if you do it yourself you can get a good used starter or maybe a new starter off eBay for 50.00 maybe a little more or less, Jesse

How do you remove the ignition switch in a 1990 Pontiac Grand Am?

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The knob you pull out is attached to the switch. To get the switch out, you will have to remove the panel underneath the dash, and some of the HVAC ductwork that runs underneath. Disconnect the battery. On the back of the switch, under the dash, there will be a little button you will have to push in to get the switch's shaft & knob to release from the switch. After that is done, you will be able to pull off the trim going around the face of the dash. It should just snap on. Then there will be a nut holding the switch to the dash. Remove the nut, the switch will come out the back, and then you can unplug it. Replace in reverse of these directions, only leave the swith shaft/knob for last. It will just push back into the new switch.

How do you repair a 1990 Volvo 740 GL that won't start but will turn over?

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i have 89 gle it was doing the same thing , and it was the fuel injetor relay (black 1 undre the hood) I have a 1991 740 which suffers from no start when hot (engine turns fine). Apparently, and this is from a Volvo trained mechanic I'd trust with my life, the fault in these earlier models lies with the fuel pump relay (which he's replacing in a few days). The relay lies behind and slightly above the fuses which are accessed from behind the ashtray, and in an emergency may respond by being tapped a couple of times. Otherwise wait for around 20 minutes and try again.

Is there a security shut off switch of some sort on the 2003 Tahoe your Tahoe will not start all lights will come on but wont start?

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The car won't start because of the security system. The security system will either have to be bypassed (there are kits available on Ebay sometimes and there are some websites that have them too) or replaced. The ignition key has a built in resistor that the security system checks when you try to start the car. If the security system doesn't recognize the resistance of the key it won't start the car. Then you have to wait 2 to 10 minutes before it will start ( sometimes it's a lot longer than 10 minutes). You could try getting a replacement key and see if the security system recognizes it better. GM installed security systems in their vehicles that are called Passkey I, II and III. So if you get a kit you have to know which system is in your vehicle.

You have a 1991 eagle talon that will start and run for a few seconds and then turn off after that it will not start up again what could be the problem?

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One thing I would check first: The fuel filter could be partially blocked and you could have sediment that gets stirred up when you start the engine further blocking the filter. After it sets for a while enough of the sediment could move out of the way to allow a small amount of fuel to get past. If that isn't the case, check to see if there is any spark after the engine starts and then fails to start again. Pull one of the sparkplug wires and connect it to a spare sparkplug. Set the sparkplug on a part of the engine that is solid metal and is well grounded. It doesn't even need to be a sparkplug that fits the car. Have a friend attempt to start the engine and watch the sparkplug for signs of a good hot spark. If the engine won't run and you have no spark, you probably have a bad component or connection. Sometimes they can be difficult to diagnose. Get back to me if you can't find out what's wrong and I'll see if I can help you figure out what to check next. a_d_kirkwood@excite.com It is also possible that you might have vacuum leak at the gasket between the intake manifold and the throttle body or between the intake manifold and the engine

Why would your car shake very badly when you get up to speeds of 65 mph or more?

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Out of balance tires, worn out tires, (tread separating, etc), bad tie rod ends, idler arm, center link, etc.

your tires need to be ballaced

The EXACT same thing just happened with my car. It would shake at higher speeds, but especially when the brakes were hot after driving for a few minutes. I took my car to the shop yesterday and they diagnosed it as a sticking brake caliper. The caliper is not releasing as it should, therefore making the brakes drag. The technician said he could barely turn the rotor it was so bad. He also said I will get much better gas mileage once it's fixed!

What happens basically is that the brakes stick, causing severe shaking and vibration in the steering wheel. I also felt it in the brake pedal when slowing down from high speeds. It felt exactly like a flat tire. It's basically like having one brake partially on while you are driving. It's very important to have this repaired ASAP as it puts wear on other parts of your car (esp. suspension parts: bearings, tie-rods, etc.). If you continue to drive with a sticking caliper it will eventually cause more damage.

These are the parts that need replacing on my car: calipers, brake pads, and possibly rotors. Sometimes the rotors can be resurfaced if they are not worn down too thin or warped. It is best to replace both driver and passenger side parts even if only one side is bad. If you only do one side, it will cause the car to pull to the opposite side, during braking causing it to wear down fast. You will soon need to replace the other side anyhow. Best to do them both at the same time so they will wear evenly and not cause unequal wear on either side.

But before you bring it into the shop, check your lug nuts to be sure they are not loose. Good luck!

Why won't a 1993 Mercury Villager start or turn-over?

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Won't turn over?

1-Bad starter

2-No power to starter: discharged battery, bad battery or loose connection

3-No signal to starter: bad ignition switch or starter relay or blown fuse or security

4-Engine stuck: Belt driven accessory problem (remove belts) or hydraulic lock (remove spark plugs) or seized engine or transmission problem

Where is the fuel pump relay located on a Pontiac Grand AM?

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on the 87 Plymouth reliant the power control moduel controls the fuel pump the fuel injector tip it is located beside the battrey on the finder and the air breather is hooked to it if putting a little fuel into fuel body and car runs until fuel is gone its most likely the pcm it fixed mine

96 Chevy pu wont start but it turns over?

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could be a few things, first disconnect the fuel line by the filter, have someone crank it and see if fuel comes out. if not its your fuel pump. do the one before the filter first than do the one after. if the first one has fuel coming out and the second one doesnt its the filter. if both do it could be your spark plugs or wires.

You were driving and your car tried to die like you were running out of gas you pulled over and went to start it again and it would turn over but not start just keeps cranking?

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Its sounds like the distributor or distributor cap/rotor,something in the timing may be off. High tension cable may be broken, or connectors poor. Or you may have cranked so much that the engine is flooded with fuel, so wait a couple of hours and try again.

Does an ignition switch problem have anything to do with transmission problems?

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In this day and age of the computers there are no Separate Systems Par Say. if the original question pertained to any say 1997 to present GM car and/or truck There is a TSB ##01-07-30-002D That refers to this type problem, It pertains to: Malfunction Indicator Lamp (MIL) On, Transmission Stuck in Second or Third Gear, Instrumend Cluster Inoperative (Replace Ignition Switch) #01-07-30-002D - (Oct 19, 2004)Malfunction Indicator Lamp (MIL) On, Transmission Stuck in Second or Third Gear, Instrument Cluster Inoperative (Replace Ignition Switch) This bulletin is being revised to update model years, add additional models and 4L80/85 Transmission Information. Please discard Corporate Bulletin Number 01-07-30-002C (Section 07 -- Transmission/Transaxle). Condition Some customers may comment on one or more of the following conditions:The Malfunction Indicator Lamp (MIL) is ON. The transmission is defaulted to second gear (4L80/85-E). The transmission is defaulted to third gear (4L60/65-E). The instrument cluster is inoperative. Upon investigation, one or all of the diagnostic trouble codes (DTCs) P0740, P0753, P0758, P0785, P0787, P0973, P0976, P1860, P2761, P2764 and P2769 may be set depending on the vehicle.CauseThe most likely cause of this condition may be a loss of voltage to the transmission on circuit 1020. This loss of power may be caused by an open in the ignition switch. This condition may also be the result of an incorrect installation of an aftermarket electronic device such as a remote starter or alarm system.If battery voltage is present at the fuse, inspect the ignition voltage circuit between the fuse and the transmission for possible opens. If battery voltage is not present at the fuse, replace the ignition switch using the Ignition Switch Replacement procedure in the Steering Wheel and Column sub-section of the applicable Service Manual. Refer to group number 2.188 of the parts catalog for part description and usage.If the vehicle is equipped with an aftermarket electronic device and the DTCs are being set when the device is being used, verify that the appropriate fuse listed above is being supplied battery voltage during operation. If voltage is not present at this fuse, these DTCs will be set due to lack of voltage at the solenoids. This condition is most likely to occur with an incorrectly installed remote starting system. If this is the case, refer the customer to the installer of the system for corrections.NOTE! GM bulletins are intended for use by professional technicians, NOT a "do-it-yourselfer". They are written to inform these technicians of conditions that may occur on some vehicles, or to provide information that could assist in the proper service of a vehicle. Properly trained technicians have the equipment, tools, safety instructions, and know-how to do a job properly and safely. If a condition is described, DO NOT assume that the bulletin applies to your vehicle, or that your vehicle will have that condition. See your GM dealer for information on whether your vehicle may benefit from the information.

No. Two separate systems.

An ignition switch might not operate if the transmission linkage or a transmission park solenoid or BTSI solenoid is defective.The most common cause apparently is spilled soda/beer on the console.

How do you change rear disk brakes on a 2001 Pontiac Grand Am GT?

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Remove the wheel, from the car. Remove the brake caliper, from the rotor. Check the rotor, for grooving,glazing, and warpage, also thickness. If any of this is present, have the rotor turned, or replaced. Then replace the brake pads, with new ones. Make sure the brake pads are compatible with the rotors that you are using.

Heat sensor with fan cooling with op-amp?

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heat sensor with fan cooling it will be used for cpu . it will be cool thing the mother board it will be reduce cpu temperature.........

How do you take the water pump out of a 97 grand am?

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Instructions depend on the engine size...if this does not cover what you have please email me and I will send you the right engine size directions. 2.0L Engine # Disconnect the negative battery cable. # Properly drain the engine coolant into a clean container for reuse. # Remove the timing belt. # Unfasten and remove the timing belt rear protective covers. # Detach the hose from the water pump. # Unfasten the water pump attaching bolts, then remove the water pump and seal ring. Fig. 1: View of the water pump mounting and O-ring-2.0L engine

To install:

# Thoroughly clean and dry the mounting surfaces, bolts and bolt holes. # Using a new sealing ring, install the water pump to the engine and hand-tighten the retaining bolts. # Attach the hose to the water pump. # Fasten the timing belt rear protective covers, then install the timing belt and properly adjust the tension. # Tighten the water pump bolts to 18 ft. lbs. (24 Nm). # Install the timing belt cover and related parts. # Connect the negative battery cable. # Fill cooling system and check for leaks. Start the engine and allow to come to normal operating temperature. Recheck for leaks and top-off the coolant. 2.3L Engine

See Figure 2 # Disconnect the negative battery cable # Detach the oxygen sensor connector. # Properly drain the engine coolant into a suitable container. Remove the heater hose from the thermostat housing for more complete coolant drain. # Remove upper and lower exhaust manifold heat shields. # Remove the bolt that attaches the exhaust manifold brace to the manifold. # Break loose the manifold to exhaust pipe spring loaded bolts using a 13mm box wrench. # Raise and safely support the vehicle. It is necessary to relieve the spring pressure from 1 bolt prior to removing the second bolt. If the spring pressure is not relieved, it will cause the exhaust pipe to twist and bind up the bolt as it is removed. # Remove the manifold to exhaust pipe bolts from the exhaust pipe flange as follows: ## Unscrew either bolt clockwise 4 turns. ## Remove the other bolt. ## Remove the first bolt. # Pull down and back on the exhaust pipe to disengage it from the exhaust manifold bolts. # Remove the radiator outlet pipe from the oil pan and transaxle. If equipped with a manual transaxle, remove the exhaust manifold brace. Leave the lower radiator hose attached and pull down on the outlet pipe to remove it from the water pump. # Carefully lower the vehicle. # Remove the exhaust manifold, seals and gaskets. # Loosen and reposition the rear engine mount and bracket for clearance, as required. # Remove the water pump mounting bolts and nuts. Remove the water pump and cover assembly, then separate the two pieces. Fig. 2: View of the water (coolant) pump mounting-1994 2.3L engine shown

To install:

# Thoroughly clean and dry all mounting surfaces, bolts and bolt holes. Using a new gasket, install the water pump to the cover and tighten the bolts finger-tight. # Lubricate the splines of the water pump with clean grease and install the assembly to the engine using new gaskets. Install the mounting bolts and nuts finger-tight. # Lubricate the radiator outlet pipe O-ring with antifreeze and install to the water pump with the bolts finger-tight. # With all gaps closed, tighten the bolts, in the following sequence, to the proper values: ## Pump assembly-to-chain housing nuts-19 ft. lbs. (26 Nm). ## Pump cover-to-pump assembly-106 inch lbs. (12 Nm). ## Cover-to-block, bottom bolt first-19 ft. lbs. (26 Nm). ## Radiator outlet pipe assembly to pump cover-125 inch lbs. (14 Nm). # Install the exhaust manifold. # Raise and safely support the vehicle. # Install the exhaust pipe flange bolts evenly and gradually to avoid binding. # Connect the radiator outlet pipe to the transaxle and oil pan. Install the exhaust manifold brace, if removed. Lower the vehicle. # Fasten the bolt that attaches the exhaust manifold brace to the manifold. # Install the heat shields. # Attach the oxygen sensor connector. # Fill the radiator with coolant until it comes out the heater hose outlet at the thermostat housing. Then connect the heater hose. Leave the radiator cap off. # Connect the negative battery cable, then start the engine. Run the vehicle until the thermostat opens, fill the radiator and recovery tank to their proper levels, then turn the engine off. # Once the vehicle has cooled, recheck the coolant level. 2.4L Engine

See Figure 3 # Disconnect the negative battery cable. # Drain and recycle the engine coolant. Fig. 3: Exploded view of the water pump and mounting on the engine-2.4L engine

# Disconnect the oxygen sensor wiring. # Remove the upper exhaust manifold heat shield. # Raise and safely support the front end of the vehicle securely on jackstands. # Remove the exhaust manifold brace bolt. # Unbolt and remove the lower exhaust manifold heat shield. # Break loose the manifold-to-exhaust pipe spring loaded nuts. # Unbolt the radiator outlet pipe assembly from the water pump cover. # Disconnect the exhaust pipe from the manifold. # Pull down and back on the exhaust pipe to disengage it from the exhaust manifold bolts. Do not rotate the flex coupling more than 4°. this could damage the component. # Separate the radiator outlet pipe from the oil pan and transaxle. ## On manual transaxle, remove the exhaust manifold brace. # Next, leave the lower radiator hose attached and pull down on the outlet pipe to detach it from the water pump. Allow the outlet pipe to hang. # Lower the vehicle. # Remove the exhaust manifold-to-cylinder head nuts. # Extract the manifold, seals and gaskets. # Remove the timing chain cover. Refer to the procedure later on in this section. # Remove the timing chain tensioner. Refer to Timing Chain removal later in this section. # Unbolt the water pump from the cylinder block. # Extract the pump assembly-to-timing chain housing nuts. # Remove the water pump and cover assembly. # Separate the pump from the cover. # Clean all mating surfaces of gaskets and sealant materials. To install:

Prior to installing the water pump, read the entire procedure. Pay special attention to the tightening sequence to avoid component damage and ensure a proper seal. # Attach the water pump to the cover and hand-tighten the components. # Lubricate the splines of the water pump drive with chassis grease or equivalent, then install the pump and cover assembly. Hand tighten the cover-to-block bolts. # Install the pump-to-chain housing nuts and hand-tighten. # Lubricate the O-ring on the radiator outlet pipe with an anti-freeze solution and slide the pipe into the water pump cover, install and hand-tighten the bolts. # With the specified gaps, tighten in sequence as follows: ## Pump assembly-to-chain housing nuts ## Pump cover-to-pump assembly ## Cover-to-block, bottom bolt first ## Radiator outlet pipe assembly-to-cover # Install the exhaust manifold using new gaskets. # Install the manifold-to-cylinder head nuts, follow the tightening sequence and tighten to specifications. # Raise and support the front of the vehicle. # Index the exhaust manifold-to-exhaust pipe flange bolts. ## Turn bolt bolts in evenly to avoid cocking the exhaust pipe and binding the bolts. Turn the bolts in until they are fully seated. # Install and secure the radiator outlet pipe to the transaxle and oil pan. On manual transaxles, install the exhaust manifold brace. # Install the timing chain tensioner and chain cover. # Attach the lower heat shield. # Lower the vehicle. # Attach the exhaust manifold brace. Tighten the manifold-to-exhaust pipe nuts to specification. # Attach and secure the upper heat shield. # Connect the oxygen sensor wiring. # Fill the radiator with coolant water mixture until it reaches the heater hose coolant outlet, then install the hose and continue to fill. This will assist with the complete cylinder block fill. # Connect the negative battery cable. # Start the engine and top off the cooling system and check for leaks. 2.5L Engine

See Figures 4 and 5 # Disconnect the negative battery cable. # Properly drain the engine coolant into a suitable container. # Remove the drive belts. # If necessary for access, remove the alternator and A/C compressor. # Unfasten the water pump front cover assembly mounting bolts, then remove the water pump front cover assembly. Fig. 4: View of the water pump mounting-2.5L engine

To install:

# If installing a new pump, transfer the water pump pulley to the new pump using installer tool J25034-B, J29785-A or equivalent. Fig. 5: If installing a new water pump, transfer the pulley from the old pump using the proper tool

# Thoroughly clean and dry the mounting surfaces, bolts and bolt holes. Place a 1/8 inch (3mm) bead of RTV sealant on the pump's sealing surface. # Install the pump to the engine, coating the bolt threads with sealant as they are installed. Tighten the bolts to 25 ft. lbs. (34 Nm). # If removed, install the alternator and/or air conditioning compressor. # Install and adjust the drive belts. Refer to . # Connect the negative battery cable. # Fill cooling system and check for leaks. Start the engine and allow to come to normal operating temperature. Recheck for leaks. Top off coolant level if necessary. 3.0L Engine

See Figure 6 # Disconnect the negative battery cable. # Properly drain the cooling system into a suitable container. # Remove the drive belt. # Detach the coolant hoses at the water pump. # Unfasten the water pump pulley bolts (the long bolt can be removed through the access hole in the body side rail), then remove the pulley. # Unfasten the water pump mounting bolts, then remove the pulley. # Thoroughly clean and dry all gasket mating surfaces. To install:

Fig. 6: Water pump mounting and bolt tightening specifications-3.0L engine shown

# Using a new gasket, install the water pump on the engine. Tighten the mounting bolts to the specifications. # Install the water pump pulley, then tighten the retaining bolts to 10 ft. lbs. (13 Nm). # Attach the coolant hoses to the pump. # Install the drive belt. # Fill the cooling system to the proper level with the correct type of coolant. # Connect the negative battery cable, then start the engine. Let the engine run until it reaches normal operating temperature, then check for leaks and coolant level. Add coolant, if necessary, then turn the engine off. 3.1L Engine

See Figure 7 # Disconnect the negative battery cable. # Properly drain the cooling system into a suitable container. # Loosen, but do not remove, the water pump pulley bolts. # Remove the serpentine belt. # Unfasten the water pump pulley bolts, then remove the pulley. # Remove the five water pump mounting bolts, then remove the water pump. To install:

Fig. 7: View of the water pump mounting-3.1L engine shown

# Clean all the gasket surfaces completely. # Apply a thin bead of sealer around the outside edge of the water pump along the gasket sealing area, then install the gasket onto the water pump. # Position the water pump on the engine, then tighten the water pump mounting bolts to 89 inch lbs. (10 Nm). # Install the water pump pulley and finger-tighten the pulley bolts. # Install the serpentine belt. # Tighten the water pump pulley bolts to 18 ft. lbs. (25 Nm). # Fill the cooling system. # Connect the negative battery cable, then start the engine. Let the engine run until it reaches normal operating temperature, then check for leaks and coolant level. Add coolant, if necessary, then turn the engine off. 3.3L Engine

See Figure 8 # Disconnect the negative battery cable. # Properly drain the engine coolant into a suitable container. # Support the engine using J 28467-A or equivalent engine support fixture. # Remove the right engine mount. # Loosen, but do not remove, the water pump pulley bolts. # Remove the serpentine belt. # Unfasten and remove the idler pulley, then remove the engine brace. # Unfasten the water pump pulley bolts and remove the pump with the pulley attached. Separate the pump from the pulley. # Thoroughly clean and dry the mounting surfaces, bolts and bolt holes. Fig. 8: View of the water pump mounting and bolt tightening specifications

To install:

# Attach the water pump to the pulley, tighten the pump-to-pulley bolts to 10 ft. lbs. (13 Nm), then install as an assembly. Install and hand-tighten the pulley bolts. # Install the engine brace and idler pulley. # Install the serpentine belt. # Tighten the water pump pulley bolts to 22 ft. lbs. (30 Nm). # Install the right engine mount. # Remove the engine support fixture. # Fill the system with coolant. # Connect the negative battery cable, run the vehicle until the thermostat opens, fill the radiator and recovery tank to the correct level. # Turn the engine off. Once the vehicle has cooled, recheck the coolant level and add if necessary.

What does a radiator cost for a 1999 Jeep Grand Cherokee?

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It depends on where you buy it. On-line you can find them from $100 to $300. I did mine a couple of months ago and it was $125 with shipping. Be aware that the grill, headlights, and bumper cover need to come off in order to remove the radiator, it sounds like a lot but if you are careful and have access to a good manul its not that bad.

1986 iroc 305 5.0 that wont shift into 3rd what could be wrong?

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low line pressure. take it to a transmission shop have the system flushed.(cooler, lines, transmission) new filter and fluid. tranny shop may also recommend a rebuild/replacement.