take the pin out of the rear diffrential and the axle should come out
The center section of the upper area of the that encloses the upper light assembly needs to be removed. It is plastic and is clipped in so be careful. After you remove this section the light assembly may or may not be attached to this piece. You need to unattach it and remove the bulb which is a 21 18W D bulb, standard rear brake light bulb in most American cars. Replace bulb and replace assembly then reclip the plastic section to the door. Be careful the plastic clips can break.
First, make sure it isn't a window switch. many people have bought expensive replacement motors, when the problem was only the switch in one of the doors. If one switch is bad, the other one will not work & the window will not move. If it is the motor, then is is strongly advised to buy the motor with the regulator attached to it. The doors on these trucks are a PAIN to work with. Take off the plastic door panel, unbolt the inner steel door panel, be careful & release the linkages, while tilting the steel inner panel to unhook the regulator from the window. this is NOT a fun job.
you have to remove the starter to replace the relay and the relay cost almost as much as the whole starter so you are better off just replacing the whole starter.
I believe that it is very touchy and you have to do it very gently so that the off lines up with the one on the knob exactly and if your's is as smooth as mine it is very hard to find that line with out going over or under.
I am not a mechanic by any means, but a nice mechanic at Tires Plus showed me where the Constant Relay Module was yesterday. Of course, that was after they sold me a freon boost and let me drive away without telling me that my air conditioning still did not work. I had to call back the next day to receive an estimate of $340.00 to have a new module installed. From what the mechanic showed me and told me - The module is located on the driver's side, front section of the engine compartment below the air filter. You must unclip and remove the air filter/intake cowling. Look straight down and you should see the little black box or module. You pull out the old one and install the new one, making sure that the pins match. From my reading, you probably need a screwdriver to remove the the screws holding it down. If you are handy with circuits, switches, and soldering, you may be able to repair the module itself, using a relay switch ($4.75) from Radio Shack or just a soldering iron ($ 0.00). Do an Internet search on relay switch, soldering, CCRM, Radio Shack, etc and you should find a detailed explanation of the process. Good luck, CWB
The relay signal is found in the glove compartment, pops right out.
Added comment:
Don't be misled. The glove compartment in a 1996 Blazer that has AC only contains relays and does not drop down with a simple release mechanism. In this vehicle, the lower dash panels do actually need to be removed in order to access the flasher. You'll need Torx bits and hex sockets to accomplish.
Disconnect Negative (-) battery cable from battery
Crawl under the passenger side of the truck just behind the right front wheel (if you are as thick as me in the middle the truck will need to be raised up, safely please.)
There are two (2) 15mm head bolts holding the starter to the engine block from below.
There are two or more wires attached to the starter, usually 8mm and 15 mm wrenches or sockets needed.
Undo wires
Unbolt and do not drop starter on your head (I have done this, ouch)
The wires may need to be undone with starter hanging loose
Reverse procedure for install.
Ok to start with you have to remove the grill and the chrome around the lights. Then between the hood and the front plastic/fibreglass there is a crack with five hex screws the middle screw is smaller than the other four, take em out, there is two nuts one on the left and one on the right they are hidden under the chrome light cover hence the need to remove thelight surrounds. once all this has been done remove the plastic/fibreglass and unplug the turn and marker lights. Now the important part as the Cherokee has two latches one on the left and one on the right so from the front of the vehicle on the right take a long screwdriver and looking in under the hood push the little piece you can see to the right, now the left latch should pop up. Dont bother with the right latch as it also moves to the right but you can push on anything to open it. Now with the hood left side up you can reach in and grab the thin bar and pull it to the left and voila the hood will open. Removing the cable is eay just unscrew the door plate not all the way just loosen two screw closest to the dash and remove the two screws holding the plastic cover on the side wall and you can get it out. Next remove the three that's right three screws holding the release cable to the side wall. Next remove the two screws holding the fuse box to the front wall. Next remove the cable from under the hood just pop it out and open the two clips holding it to the hood. You can now pull it out through the fire wall and installthe new one the same way it came out you'll need a helper to push on the rubber stop as you pull the cable through from the engine compartment. Screw everything back in place and there you have it opened the hood and replaced the cable. www.a-pluspawnbrokers.co.nr
It may be true for this model year, but for a 2000 Jeep Cherokee (mine), it isn't this complicated. Remove both headlight bezels and both headlights. Behind the headlight bowl/socket/cup (thingy that the headlight sits in), there are two bolts. One goes straight up and down from the upper part behind the headlight socket and takes a 12mm socket. This holds the top part of the striker. Just offset from center toward the outside of the vehicle is another bolt that takes a 13 mm socket and is the only one you can really see. This one requires use of a universal to get to the socket. This is the only other bolt holding the strikers to the vehicle. Once you have the four bolts out, use something soft to gently pry the hood up and it will be released as normal from the center latch. I used the above method and succeeded in scratching the leading edge of my hood and the trailing edge of the grill.
put the key in the keyhole and turn it while holding the detent(the little metal cylinder that sticks out of the flat portion of the outside of the unit) when you feel the detent drop that's where the key needs to be. now slide the whole thing just as it is into the socket on the steering column, making sure its completely seated. voila!
place a coat of resin onto metal. then sheet of fiberglass, then resin, then fiberglass, and so on...until you achieve your desired thickness....PS: You will want to roll out the air bubbles every 2 to 3 layers for best results
Walt Disney's choice of musical entertainment has evidently not been recorded in the annuls of history, however a quick web search does show one of his favorite Disney songs was Feed the Birds from Mary Poppins.
the fuse 4 the seats is actually circuit breaker #11 in the fuse block located over the break pedal. this is identified in the owners manual.Another fuse link is located under the carpet.
You may be able to get a direct replacement at the auto parts store, but actually separating the pieces of the exhaust is quite a chore, as they tend to bond together with corrosion/rust. Cutting and welding is often necessary. Taking it to a reputable shop may be a good idea.
it my be that the steering wheel is to far over in order to realese. try pulling down the oppsite way from where the wheels are turned to. ie if the wheels are turned to the left turn the wheel to the right, at the same time try turning the key an remove it .
There could be condensation in the distributor or possibly a worn camshaft. It is also possible that the carberatuer needs to be cleaned or rebuilt.
First, reset the computer by disconnecting the negative battery cable for a couple of minutes then reconnect. If the CHECK ENGINE light still comes on, check the gas cap and make sure it is tight. Due to emission rules (OBDII), the computer checks to make sure the gas cap seals the gas tank. You might have to replace the gas cap.
The switch is located at the shift lever input to the transmission. If you look down right next to the power brake booster, you should see the switch on top of the transmission. When you buy the replacement switch it will come with installation instructions. READ THEM. The trans must be in Neutral to get the new switch (or old one) reinstalled in the correct position!
Depending on the year of the vehicle, Chrysler had some issues with their ignitions from the 1998 - 2004 range. The ignition switches wear badly and rather than getting it repaired, alot of times it is more cost effective to just have the ignition cylinder replaced. To tell the truth, you could get the original repaired and then end up a week later with the same issues.
Most likely. Go read about it at the Library, or purchase a book that shows you what's involved. Yes, The tank must be dropped to access the pump. Once you get the tank dropped you will remove the sending unit from the top of the tank and the pump is attached to it.Simply remove the 2 wires from pump,remove pump and re-install in the same mannor.Most of the time you can take a pry bar and move the exhaust system out of the way enough to remove and install the tank without removing it.This job is done much easier on a vehical lift,if you do not have one then I suggest you have it done by a local shop.
The flasher unit for both the turn signals and the emergency lights are under the dash, between the center console and the storage area. It's not hard to get to, just takes some time and patience.
The problem is most likely a broken blend door. This problem is very common on this model and that's always a pretty good guess. There is an aftermarket fix for the problem or have the dealer diagnose and fix it for close to $1k.
usually you have to press, or pound with a hammer...if the joints are riveted in you need to break the rivets, perhaps with a chisel...on rare occasion the joints are not servicable and the whole control arm need to be replaced
YOU WILL REQUIRE A SPECIAL CORE DRILL, MADE EXCLUSIVELY FOR MERCEDES, THIS WILL STRIP THE OUTER RING OF THE HARDPLATE FRONT, ONCE THIS IS REMOVED THEN THE REST OF THE IGNITION CAN BE REMOVED THE SAME AS NORMAL, I.E. : INSERT WIRES INTO PROBE HOLES AND RELEASE. I HAVE A G REG 190E TO DO TOMORROW (SAT 7th JAN), THE TOOL COSTS OVER A