How do you make paintball mortar?

Answer 1

You cannot build a paintball tank. It is dangerous to even try, because if your tank does hold the pressure, it will explode and you will most likely be killed. Tanks are only $30 dollars, and any material that could hold it, plus the cost of a valve will be more expensive.

Answer 2

You need an asa from a marker (or a 12 gram charger), a valve, and piping. You need to get either pvc or metal piping, and create several sealed sections. You can make it more complex, but you need your source, attached to a pressurization area, attached to the valve, then to a barrel. The barrel should be large enough to fit whatever rounds you are using (nerf rockets, paintball bundles. ect)

Answer 3

Dye Matrix 4(Dm4) The trigger frame 2 screws on the front and back screw these in with the top of the marker and fit the solenoid into the top as well. Do this carefully so you do not hurt the solenoid. On the trigger frame, there are grip holes, screw these in the proper holes so that you can have grips for holding the marker. On the butt of the marker there will be two Alan keyholes, you will need a ¼ size for this. The top one is the “Fuse Bolt”, which hits the paintball. To assemble this, put the cylinder (round metal ring) around the bolt (Longest metal stick-like part). Put the skinny end of the bolt around the top hat (looks similar to a top hat), and the rear cap on the end of the top hat. After this screw the bolt back it till it is snug. If you do not, air will leak out the back. The second hold is the LPR (Low Pressure Regulator). This is used to move the bolt back and forth. Both the bolt and the LPR are vital to the marker, and you must have every part. Put a large O-Ring (plastic ring that protects the divots in the marker) inside the piston, the long skinny part of the piston must go inside the spring, which goes inside the “body” (longest metal part of the LPR and has 3 O-Rings surrounding it). Place a O-Ring inside the main seal, which goes inside of the seal retainer. Put this in the “body”, and finish it by placing the back LPR cover on it and screw it in (you will need an Alan Key, ¼ size). Make sure it is snug so no air leaks out of the back. On the front of the gun, is the Hyper 2 regulator. This allows the gun to use the high-pressure air. Note: Messing with the regulator is dangerous, and costly if something goes wrong. Starting from the top of the regulation, the piston connects to the reg cap. Shims connect to the piston. Put the shims in the reg body; place an O-Ring on the seat, which goes into the seat housing. This can be placed in the long skinny part of the reg body. Put the seat housing in the swivel and the cap on the end and screw it in. The On/Off valve is located on the front of the Marker. This controls when the gas enters the marker. The on/off is one piece with 3 O-rings (2 large, 1 small). It is important to change all O-Rings every 10,000 shots. The Dm4 also has Anti-Chop Eyes that must be cleaned after some time. Just put the eye covers in there respected holes and put the plate back on with a 1/16 Alan Key. Dye Matrix 5 (Dm5) The Dm5 is basically a Dm4, but with a smaller lighter body. They still have a Fuse Bolt, LPR, and Hyper 2 Regulator. The only difference is the feeneck. This time, they have a feedneck with a screw clamp. This is very simple to put it, simply slide it on the top of the feedneck, and screw till it is tight. Dye Matrix 6 (Dm6) The only difference between the Dm6 and Dm5 is size. Assembling is the same Dye Matrix 7 (Dm7) This is a few ounces smaller then the Dm6, and has fewer O-Rings then its predecessors. The set up is generally the same Dye Matrix 8 (Dm8) Not really mentioned before but there is more emphasis on the Dm8’s ASA. This is the last part of the gun that can turn your air on and off with the turn on a knob. This is very easy to put in, just screw it in from the bottom up. The Fuse bolt is pretty much the same, just slightly refined. There are still only 4 parts (Cylinder, bolt, top hat, and cap). Though there is a removable ring in the front of the cylinder. Put it in the cylinder. The LPR is also the same is above, but there is no more spring. The Hyper 3 is built the same as the hyper 2, though it is a bit more refined and smaller. Around the eyes there is not a protective coating, a small plastic cover that is put in via barrel slot. The feedneck is now a clamping feed neck, but its very similar to the screw feedneck. Dye Matrix 9 (Dm9) This is about 3 ounces smaller then the Dm8, but is the same, minus the board. Proto Matrix 5-9 (Pm5, Pm6, Pm7, Pm8) Proto is basically a side company of dye. Therefore nearly all of their guns are identical. They use the same Fuse bolt and LPR. The only difference, is that the LPR is covered and you must dissemble the body to reach it Planet Eclipse Ego 6/Etek/Etek 2 Planet Eclipse really took off after the Ego 6, and a few years later they released the Etek and Etek 2 as a cheaper model of Egos. The trigger frame has 2 screws that connect to the top of the gun. Inside is the board and micro switch that fit neatly inside the frame. This is also where the battery sits. On the bottom of the trigger frame there is the OOPS ASA. Put the OOPS pin inside the OOPS insert, which goes inside the OOPS body, and insert the pin. Finish the ASA with the OOPS knob. In front of the frame is the inline regulator. If you put the FRM screw (squareish with long stick like end) on top of the reg. The Swivel collar around the reg (small collar that usually has Planet Eclipse logo) and the macro line elbow (silver hose that is in a 90 degree angel) on the side of that. The FRM connects to the top of the marker. In between the top and bottom there is the solenoid. This fits neatly in the middle, though take care with placing this because if it breaks, you’ll be out a lot of money. On the back of the top of the gun is the rammer. This pushes the bolt and springs back to push it again. Put the exhaust valve (long silver stick with black end) in the rammer housing (large black tube) and put the rammer cap on the end of this. The bolt is already assembled and can be placed in the marker by aligning the grooves. On the front of the gun there is the LPR (Low pressure regulator). Allign the spring to the LPR body and place the LPR cap on this. Finally the feedneck is placed easily on the top of the gun and screwed in. Ego 07 This is very similar to the 06 Ego, though there is a QEV under the rammer that fits easily under the marker. Ego 08 Very similar set up to the 07, except there is not a QEV block that holds the QEVs behind the solenoid. Ego 09 Nearly identical to the 08, everything is just smaller Smart Parts Ion A very easy gun to assemble. The trigger frame has 2 screws that connect to the top of the gun. In between this are the solenoid and 2 ball detents (two small round balls) that are placed on the side of the top of the gun. The ion vision board (eyes) is also located here. On the side of the trigger frame are 4 grip holes that you screw in for side grips. The ASA is located on the bottom of the gun, and is put on with 2 screws from the bottom. The Reg goes on the front of the gun with the macro line on the end. Most regs are made the same. Refer to Dm section for more. The top of the gun connects to the back bolt. Put the bolt (long metal with grooves in it) in the bolt stop (thick ring bolt) and finally in the bolt sleeve (large bolt coat with back) Smart Parts Ion XE Very similar, only difference is minor changes in the bolt

Answer 4

Follow instructions for a PVC rocket launcher, then add a bipod. All you need is a 12 gram charger, a valve and Pvc tubing.